Car won't start and you lost all electrical power? Check the fusible link. A fusible link is just like any other car fuse, but instead of being plastic, it is a thin wire with a thick insulator. To properly connect a fusible link you need to use a crimp, solder, and shrink-wrap the connection.
Soldering Iron that is really good: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002I7X7ZS/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B002I7X7ZS&linkCode=as2&tag=chri0e2-20&linkId=4QJFO6FBVGCPESKW
Helping hand wire holder: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000RB38X8/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B000RB38X8&linkCode=as2&tag=chri0e2-20&linkId=B3TBLLD3SZYJUTDB
Fusible Link Wire: http://www.amazon.com/s/?_encoding=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&field-keywords=fusible%20link&linkCode=ur2&sprefix=fusible%20li%2Caps&tag=chri0e2-20&url=search-alias%3Daps&linkId=SGSAQ2B7ROBI7G43
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Disclaimer:
Due to factors beyond the control of ChrisFix, I cannot guarantee against improper use or unauthorized modifications of this information. ChrisFix assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. Use this information at your own risk. ChrisFix recommends safe practices when working on vehicles and or with tools seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of ChrisFix, no information contained in this video shall create any expressed or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage, or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or from the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not ChrisFix.
Soldering Iron that is really good: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002I7X7ZS/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B002I7X7ZS&linkCode=as2&tag=chri0e2-20&linkId=4QJFO6FBVGCPESKW
Helping hand wire holder: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000RB38X8/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B000RB38X8&linkCode=as2&tag=chri0e2-20&linkId=B3TBLLD3SZYJUTDB
Fusible Link Wire: http://www.amazon.com/s/?_encoding=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&field-keywords=fusible%20link&linkCode=ur2&sprefix=fusible%20li%2Caps&tag=chri0e2-20&url=search-alias%3Daps&linkId=SGSAQ2B7ROBI7G43
**If the video was helpful, remember to give it a "thumbs up" and consider subscribing. New videos every Thursday**
-Website: https://www.ChrisFixed.com
-Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/chrisfix8
-Twitter: https://twitter.com/ChrisFixed
-Instagram: https://instagram.com/chrisfixit
-Subscribe Here: http://www.youtube.com/subscription_center?add_user=paintballoo7
-YouTube Channel: https://www.youtube.com/ChrisFix
Disclaimer:
Due to factors beyond the control of ChrisFix, I cannot guarantee against improper use or unauthorized modifications of this information. ChrisFix assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. Use this information at your own risk. ChrisFix recommends safe practices when working on vehicles and or with tools seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of ChrisFix, no information contained in this video shall create any expressed or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage, or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or from the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not ChrisFix.
My aunts 91 firebird had a fusible link that blew for the alternator and once replaced alternator worked again
🇵🇬🇵🇬,mm,
I just want to make a short comment and yes it definitely is similar to a fuse or relay however there's nothing in today's world that replaces a fusible link unfortunately. Have a 1990 Dodge van that has a lot of fusible links I would love to substitute them but it is very complicated because even though they protect in the same manner there's nothing that will allow a current to come through and not pop it the way a fusible link works. A fuse any current coming through that is too high will pop at immediately relay will turn it off and then turn it back on immediately.. fusible link allows up to 3 seconds of current to go through so if you have surges in the system (an old van like mine there are many) The fusible link allows for them whereas the fuses and relays don't. Many people replace them but there are issues with doing that I wish there was a direct replacement. It's fine when you have one fusible link but when you have 20 of them it's really a pain
you said "don't forget to put the heat shrink on the wires before soldering and crimping"…what do you mean, because how can you crimp and solder if the plastic heat shrink is already over the area being fused?
Use flux next time and it will look as good as your example did
I need you in my lifetime you're the reason I work and fix whatever I can but I also know when to leave it to the pros. Very thorough and don't listen to anyone else's opinions on how soldering looks. If it is bonded together WHO CARES? I THINK YOU DID AN AMAZING JOB
Your soldering result was ugly because your soldering iron didn't produce sufficient heat for that job & because you didn't use sufficient flux. Good vid nevertheless–it shows the essential info, so thank you!
The FL is usually tinned copper high stranding wire with a Hypalon (high temp, will not catch fire) insulating jacket. An blown FL will have a rippled and distorted look to the jacket (insulation). Although, as seen in the video, the failure mode is more often corrosion than an internally shorted Alternator.
I prefer to use round barrel step down butt splices (hydraulic crimp) with Red dual wall heat shrink when repairing FLs. I do not solder fusible links. One of the many reasons is, for a large wire gauge splice like in the video, is the amount of heat needed to solder the joint correctly can actually over temp the FL jacket which will make it look like it experienced and overload (over temp) condition, because this is how you identify an overloaded FL. So, to avoid this, it is best to use a barrel butt splice connection(s).
Why would that link make your speedometer move??
Hey Boss, what kind of crimp is that? And what other types of crimps are acceptable? Can I also just solder the wire well and use heat shrink tubing?
The close caption sometimes interferes with the video. Great video. Question, would cleaning the connections with baking soda help?
I removed the small section of fusible link wire that connects the two different gauged wires together. How do I replace that?