Hey guys chrisfix here at the end of this winch cable is a car. I just got for five hundred dollars, it doesn't run it doesn't drive, and today I'm gon na show you guys how to fix it up. So we could get it running and driving at home with common hand, tools on a budget, so we'll spend less than a thousand dollars to get a really nice running and driving car. You guys are always asking me Chris, what's a good first car, so let's save something: that's large! What's a good around town car that could carry stuff or an inexpensive family car! Well, this car hits on all that and I paid five hundred dollars for it.

So, let's check it out now this is a clean title: 2005 Chevy, Trailblazer, LT and while the title is clean, this car is a mess. This is so dirty. The outside has faded paint, it's all oxidized, but don't worry. I did check alright here check this out.

I compounded and polished right in this little square here and that paint looks awesome, especially compared to this old faded paint, so the outside we will be able to clean up and make look really good. Now how about the inside? Well, as you can see, the inside isn't very clean either. We're gon na have to do a lot of work to get it clean. Also we're missing a couple of trim pieces.

There should be a trim piece right around the handle here and also around that handle on that side and, finally, this center console well, it doesn't latch all things that we can easily fix. So I'm not too concerned because this is a very well option. Car we have heated seats in the front. We have a sunroof all the weather.

All the interior pieces are in good condition, otherwise, so we'll be able to clean this up really nicely, but I'm not concerned with how clean the interior is or how clean the exterior is. What I'm concerned about is getting this car running when I was at the owners house, I couldn't get it started. I couldn't even get to turn over because this battery was so dead. I tried touching jumper cables to it, a charger everything, but it's just so dead.

There wasn't even a click from the starter, but with that said, I did make sure to check some of the cars vitals. For example, I checked the oil. I want to make sure it was in good condition. There was no froth which could indicate a head gasket leak and also that it was all the way filled up, and it was so that was good.

I also checked the transmission fluid. I wanted to make sure it was filled and that it was somewhat which it was so that was also good and finally make sure the coolant was topped off it wasn't rusty. It was the correct deck school that should be in here, so that was good as well, so the engine oil transmission, fluid and coolant all looked normal, there's nothing that stands out. That looks bad like a head, gasket leak or something, but that doesn't mean our engine is good.

It could still have low compression. It could still have other issues that would make it junk and not worth to fix, and we don't know because we can't even get it to turn over now. I use that to my advantage when negotiating with the owner, and I also found a couple of other things. I don't want to show you guys now underneath the car.

The first thing I noticed was this exhaust system. This muffler well it's shot and then, if we come and look up over by the fuel tank check this out, there's like melted, plastic or something this looks like this should be an emission hose like a evap hose or something Plus back here it looks like the Gas tank is like melted or deformed, or something right there. So there's a lot more here, that's wrong than a fuel pump and after inspecting the entire SUV the owner says he wants $ 1,000 for it and it just needs a fuel pump and I disagree. I saw it needed a battery needed an exhaust needed something with the evap system in the rear.

Maybe a new gas tank needs a bunch of interior bits and pieces, a good cleaning and a lot of little odds and ends here and there. So, for me it was worth $ 500. That's the offer. I made him, he tried to go 750.

Then it came down to 650. Then he said 550 but I held out - and I said: listen $ 500 cash I'll tow it today and that's what we agreed upon. So you always want to hold firm at whatever price you think the car is worth. Don't go above that and here's why I chose $ 500.

So, let's just say worst case scenario: we can't get the car running, so all you need to do is go to. Google and search junk car removal and click, one of the links that come up. This was the first one that came up. They offered me four hundred and ten dollars for this car and they tow it away.

That's not even a name, your price, that's their first offer. If I wanted to, I could probably put 500 and get all 500 back worst case scenario, though I could get four hundred and ten dollars and they'll tow the car away, and they could do that because cars like this have value in the catalytic converters. The parts to it so junkyards part them out and recycle so worst case scenario: I lose $ 90. That's the risk, but the reward is a lot greater check.

This out. This car, in good condition, is worth fourth dollars at a dealer and three thousand dollars private party. So that means, if we could fix this up, we could sell it for three thousand dollars giving us a profit of two thousand dollars, which is an awesome upside. So if you want to fix the car up and flip, it you'll make yourself about two thousand dollars, but if you want to fix it up and keep it you'll save yourself about two to three thousand dollars.

Either way it's a lot of fun. Let's see if we could get this car started and to do that here are all the tools that you're gon na need, let's check it out and as usual, we're using common hand, tools stuff that you can get at your local hardware store that won't break the Bank, so we have a hundred fifty piece socket set. We have some screwdrivers breaker bar a saw, a hammer, torque wrench. We have a pliers ends.

We can't forget about our safety glasses. So let's put these on now now, you've probably noticed all of these tools here are Craftsman tools and the reason why is because craftsman reached out to me - and they said they wanted a partner in a video with me and they said they'll give me whatever tools. I need they could give me three giant tool boxes loaded with tools, but instead I said why not I want to show that we could get this car running with a simple tool set. Something like this 150 piece set and you know a couple miscellaneous hand tools and that's the goal.

The whole point is we could do this at home without breaking the bank. So let's get this car started now. The first thing we need to do is remove the old dead battery, so remove the cables from the battery and out with the old and in with the new, then tighten up each of the battery cables. So there's snug and have a good connection and it's important that we secure the battery so tighten down the battery hold-down and now our battery is safe and won't be a projectile if there is an accident so with the new battery in let's go see.

If we could start her up alright, so the previous owner said it won't run because it has a bad fuel pump, we're about to test that out right now, we're gon na put the key in the ignition and turn it to the run position. I want to listen for a fuel pump hum behind me. Hey, I don't hear anything so the fuel pump isn't running, which is expected. That's what he said.

Let's go try to start it anyway. Ah, that's not good. I wasn't expecting that. Okay, so our starter isn't functioning either.

That's thanks to electrical issues that makes me think we should check the fuse box and look for any blown fuses. So let's go do that and the fuse box on this car is low right behind the battery. So all we have to do is pop this off and then there's a little cover here, which we could also pop off and now we want to take a look at our fuses and it's helpful if you grab the owner's manual because in the owners manual it Has the fuse box and then what each fuse does and since the advertisement said, the fuel pump was bad on this car. Before I went to go, look at it, I did some research to see what causes a bad fuel pump on a 2005 Trailblazer.

There is no fuel pump fuse, that's the first thing I always look for. Instead, the powertrain control module. We have one right here at fuse number 28 and one right here at fuse number 10, both of those control, the fuel pump. So, let's check those fuses and to check them we're gon na use a multimeter and we're gon na set it to ohms.

Now this is super easy on the top of every fuse. There are two metal pieces. You're gon na touch your leads to when you do that the numbers on the multimeter should change if it changes. That means the fuse is good if it stays one.

That means it's bad, so keep an eye on the multimeter. If we touch this and it changes, our fuse is good. So, let's test it and nothing is happening. Okay, so we found a bad fuse.

Let's go check out the other fuse as well, and there we go that fuse is good. So this PCM fuse right here is bad, so let's remove that fuse with our needle nose pliers and check it out. So this is a 20 amp fuse and it's looking a little bit melted at the top there and check that out. You see how there's a gap in there those two pieces of metal should be connected, and it's not so this fuse is blown here's.

What it should look like. You see how the two pieces of metal are connected in there. This fuse is good, so let's install it so we get the blades of the fuse in the slot and push it in all the way like so, and I'm actually relieved to see a bad fuse, because that means we're onto something so with that fuse replaced. Let's go start the car alright, so let's put the key in the run position and we want to hear a fuel pump hum behind us.

Okay, that's a good sign! The fuel pump is humming, let's see if she'll start come on, come on, okay! Well, the starter work the fuel pumps going: let's try this one more time and see what happens come on all right. Yes, that is awesome. Okay, we got this. We got the car star, that's so good, okay, real quick! You always want to make sure.

There's oil pressure and you can see we have oil pressure, so that's good! The battery's working we are low on fuel, so we got a. I think. I'm gon na shut this off pretty quickly, but real, quick, let's go outside and wahoo. Oh man check this out.

It is so loud I made that muffler shut. Okay, I'm gon na shut this off real quick because I don't want anything to get damaged, haha baby, oh and we have a check engine light too. So there's a couple things wrong with this. Obviously, we'll fix it up but, most importantly, we got her running.

This is so exciting. Yes, whoo man. That is exciting. That's super important that we got this car running, so we know there's a couple things wrong.

Apparently, the owner ran this out of fuel and whenever you run something out of fuel, the fuel pump isn't lubricated, it's not cooled and that's potentially, what caused that fuse to pop an overheated fuel pump. It's just a guess, but either way we got it running, and that is huge. Now, let's see if we could move her under her own power onto the ramps, will she go in Reverse? Okay? Well, that works and the brakes also work good. Now, anytime, I put a carp on ramps, I put it in park, I pull the e brake and I always like to chalk off the wheels so there's no chance of the car rolling.

So now let me show you the parts we're gon na install into this car to get it so it's safe and reliable to drive and since we're doing this on a budget, I went to a junkyard and I got a fuel tank that has everything we need For $ 100 and has the fuel pump, it has all those emissions hoses for the evap. It even comes with that charcoal canister in the back there. All that for $ 100 was a great deal compared to brand-new with just the fuel tank is eight hundred dollars. Big difference there, but we don't know the condition of that fuel pump, so I did buy a brand new OEM fuel pump.

So this car is gon na run perfect. We also have a muffler. This is a direct Bolton, muffler it'll bolt right into the flange on the car and then the others we'll use a clamp, and then I also got some interior bits and pieces. So we can make this car look perfect all right.

The first thing we need to do is replace this rusted muffler and to do that, there's a bar that runs along the bottom. Here we need to remove that held in by two fasteners one on this side, one on the other side. Now the fasteners on this car are pretty rusted and you might be looking around see, there's a lot of surface rust. This is typical of a northeast car.

We get salt on the roads in the winter and this is not bad as long as it's not structural. This is all just surface rust, so it's really nothing. I know. That's gon na be a question you guys have, but the rust does make it difficult to remove fasteners.

So a trick is to get some penetrating fluid and spray down the bolt threads with the penetrating fluid, and let it soak for a minute if you know you're gon na be doing this job. You could even soak these down a few days early to make it even easier to remove the bolts. Now we could grab our ratchet and remove the bolts and, just as I figured, these are stuck on there good from all the rust. So this is where a breaker bar, which is double the length of a ratchet, will give you extra leverage to break these bolts loose and look at how easy that made it.

Now that it's broken loose, we can loosen it the rest of the way with a ratchet and take a look at that you can see the penetrating fluid gets into the threads and that's what helps make it easier to loosen the bolt. So, let's do the same thing on the other side: spray down the bolt break it free with a breaker bar and loosen it the rest of the way with the ratchet. So we could remove this crossmember. So with that crossmember removed we're able to drop the exhaust out and that's exactly what we want now, there's two fasteners in the front at that flange over there and then back here you can see we have a complete welded piece, so we're gon na have to Make a cut right about here, but to know exactly where to make the cut.

We need our new exhaust, which is all right here, check that out. So the back it's nice, this whole thing is just bolt in the back. Has the two fasteners that we're gon na bolt up right? Where that flange goes it's the same exact size? The only difference is we don't have that welded piece in the back? Instead, we have a piece that sticks out like that, so this piece sticks out a couple inches past the back of the muffler and that's pretty much where this is right here. So I'm gon na leave a little space.

I'm gon na cut right here. That way, we have some room. We could always take a little bit more away, but it's a lot harder to add on so, let's cut right about there now. One trick that helps you cut straight is to grab some tape and wrap the tape around the pipe.

This gives you a straight line to follow as you cut, because if you just eyeball it, you could cut at an angle by mistake, so get the saw on the line and start cutting the pipe beautiful, and this muffler definitely had to be replaced. So now, with this end of the muffler sawed off, let's head over to the front of the muffler at the flange - and we need to remove these two nuts holding it on now, I already sprayed these down with penetrating fluid, so they could soak so grab your Breaker bar and let's break them free. Well, we broke it free for sure good thing. The new muffler has the studs on it.

So snapping this isn't a big deal, let's see if the other side's gon na break loose or snap and this side snap to it. Actually works in our favor. This makes it a lot quicker than trying to remove the nuts. So now we can remove the muffler and to get the muffler off the exhaust hanger.

A little trick is to use some silicone spray as lubricant and then watch a flathead screwdriver in there to help open up the hole, then pry it outwards, and it should come right out just like that, since the heat shield has some holes in it, I'm gon Na use a few layers of foil tape to cover up the holes and reflect that heat back down away from the cabin as a quick, simple fix and with that patched up, let's get the new muffler in place. So, let's start by sliding it into the exhaust hanger like that, and now it's very important that we clean up this rusty flange, so grab a metal wire brush or a 180 grit sandpaper and brush around the flange, where the new muffler is gon na mount. To this is gon na help the new muffler seal correctly, so we don't have any exhaust leaks. So with this all cleaned up and smooth.

Now, let's install the muffler, get both studs aligned and then hand tighten the nuts onto the studs and it's important that we go back and forth and tighten each nut down a little at a time, so the muffler mates to the flange evenly. That way, we don't get any leaks good so with the two nuts tightened down. That flange is sealed. Now, let's head over to the rear of the muffler and install the rest of the exhaust onto the end of the muffler, and this will slide right in there perfect.

Now I'm gon na use one of these u-bolt exhaust clamps, and this fits perfectly around the end of our stock exhaust pipe, and this is gon na create a nice tight seal. Now, when you tighten these nuts down, do the same thing as before and tighten one down a little, then tighten the other down a little go back and forth so that you have an even clamping force which is seal them up were completely, and the last thing To do is to install a new rubber exhaust hanger insulator, but, as you could see, this one is slightly off. So let's hit the hanger with the hammer and bend it back. So we could get this on and now, with a little bit of wiggling, the rubber insulator could fit into place like it should all right with everything in place.

Now we're gon na go start the car up and we're gon na grab our soapy water and spray down all of the areas that we connected the exhaust to make sure there's no exhaust leaks. All soapy water is is dish, soap and water. It's gon na create bubbles if there's an exhaust leak, so let's start er up and with the engine running spray down the connection with soapy water, and I don't see any bubbles at all over here. So this looks good.

So now, let's move to the front and spray down this connection as well. Beautiful - and I don't see any bubbles coming out of here, so our exhaust is sealed all right with our exhaust installed perfectly it's nice and quiet. There's no exhaust leaks next thing to do is to drop the old tank and install the new tank, but before we drop the old tank, it's a good idea. Let's take a look at the new tank to see all the connectors we need to remove.

So we can successfully remove and replace this tank. Okay, looking at our new fuel tank, we'll start at the rear, we're gon na have to disconnect our fuel filler hose and then going to the front of the tank. We have two fuel lines we'll have to disconnect these and then there's a strap here and a strap here, holding the tank up, we'll remove those straps and slowly lower the tank about halfway, not all the way, because we don't want to yank this wiring harness out. So then, we'll undo the wires for the wiring harness and then we can lower it the rest of the way and that's all there is to it now before we do any of this.

It's very important to remove the fuel pressure from the fuel lines, so the fuel isn't squirting all over the place and to do that, it's very easy. We come over here to the fuse box. If you have a fuel pump fuse you're gon na pull that in this case we have a fuel pump relay. So we're going to pull that out and then all we need to do is crank the engine over a couple of times and that will dissipate all the fuel pressure because the fuel injectors are firing, but the fuel pump is off.

So now we have no fuel pressure and finally, it's a good idea to disconnect a negative terminal on your battery anytime, you're working with the fuel system, that'll prevent Sparks and fuel and sparks definitely don't mix, and one last safety tip is to always have a Class B, fire extinguisher when working with gasoline drop in the fuel tank, changing the fuel pump. Anything like that we have a Class B and C fire extinguisher B is good for flammable liquids and C is good for electrical fires. So we are well protected here now we could begin droppin the fuel tank okay. So, let's start at the rear of the fuel tank right in front of the rear axle where the fuel filler hose is first loosen the hose clamp with a screwdriver and slide the clamp up out of the way, then pull the hose off the tank like that.

Next, at the front of the tank, let's remove the two fuel lines and at the top of the connection, is a button. You press down so press that button and as you do that pull the line out and remove it. Just like that good now, the other connector, you can see the button on the bottom press that in and pull the line out - and sometimes these are difficult to remove. So you could use a screwdriver to pry the connector like so and that'll free it enough.

So you could disconnect it, and I should mention: there's probably gon na - be some residual fuel in the lines so have a towel or a catch-can ready just in case. So what the fuel lines disconnected now we're able to drop the tank, but before we drop it, this thing could be heavy. So we need to support the tank so slide a jack under and raise the jack, so it lightly touches the bottom of the tank and what the tank supported now we could remove the straps that hold it in by removing the bolts. So, let's break it free with a breaker bar and then loosen it.

The rest of the way, with a ratchet and with the first strap free, let's head to the back of the tank and remove this second strap right here, so break it free with a breaker bar and then again loosen it. The rest of the way, with the ratchet good now, let's carefully lower the tank down about halfway, which will give us access to the fuel pump wiring so pop the wire off the pressure sensor and then pop the wire off the fuel pump like so. Finally, let's drop the tank down the rest of the way and slide it out from under the vehicle now. The last thing we need to do is remove the old rusty charcoal canister, and this is held in by three bolts.

So, let's remove those and the cannister comes right out so out with the old and in with the new, well almost new and check this out. No wonder this car had no fuel in it, it wasn't a busted fuel pump, it was a melted fuel tank and he couldn't fill it up because of this fuel filler neck. It's just melted, solid. Look at that! No wonder check out! This is what it's supposed to look like if you could easily get in there, and this is what happened.

This is crazy. I've never seen anything like this, I'm guessing that bad exhaust caused all that hot exhaust gas to get all over this and just melted. The evap lines the vent tube all this stuff here, so this tank wasn't working properly and he's lucky. He didn't have an explosion or a fire.

So we're done with this one. Now we're on to this one right here and all we need to do is remove this old fuel pump and we'll put the new fuel pump in and then we'll get our tank installed now this is gon na be the most difficult part, because all this is So rusted and getting these hoses off without breaking them is gon na, be a pain, but don't worry. I have a really good trick at removing these connectors without breaking the brittle plastic. So let me show you, let's replace this fuel pump.

Now it's very important before you remove the fuel pump, you want to remove all the dirt and rust sitting on top of the tank, so it doesn't fall into the tank by mistake when you remove the fuel pump, so I'm gon na clean off the top of The tank and make sure that doesn't happen and contaminate the fuel system, and after this is all cleaned, we could remove these two connectors from the fuel pump. Now it's super important. We do not damage these they're very hard to find replacements for and they're made of plastic, which is brittle, so I'm gon na show you some tricks so that we get these off successfully and you can see how rusted everything is so got to be. Very careful here the first thing to do is spray down the connections with penetrating fluid to help break apart.

The rust next grab a flathead, screwdriver and press the button in on the connector and, at the same time twist the connector and pull it upwards until the connector comes off like that good now, with the other connector do the same thing press the button in with The screwdriver, oh man, that's what I was afraid of this thing isn't budging it's all rust welded in there. I'm sure that rust expanded it's making it impossible to get this out. So the trick here is to grab a locking pliers and clamp it onto the metal tube about one screwdriver length away from the connector. Now, what you're going to do is get a pair of flat heads two drivers between the pliers and the connector and pry at the connector back and forth.

To loosen up that connection, then press the button down and use a screwdriver to pry off the connector, and then we could pop it off the rest of the way like that and now this fuel pump is being held in with one of these locking rings. So to remove it, we just need to turn it, but as usual, it's all rusted. So it's not going to be easy, so cover the whole ring with penetrating fluid and don't be afraid you could use as much as you want of this stuff, then get a flathead screwdriver and a hammer and work your way around. The locking ring hitting it counterclockwise to remove it.

This might take a few tries as its on there pretty good with all that rust. Eventually, with all the rust loosened up, just a few more hits, and there we go, the lock ring can be removed. Now that we made a mess, let's clean up the rust, so it doesn't fall on the tank and finally, we can pull the fuel pump up and out of the fuel tank now odds. Are you got some rust in the tank, so grab a paper towel and make sure you remove all of it any rust or dirt could cause the new fuel pump to clog up and fail so inspect the tank and make sure it's spotless like this beautiful now I always like to match up both of my parts, the old part in the new part to make sure they're identical, and these are so, let's install the new one, we'll start by installing the o-ring which goes right in this little channel here, then we could get The new fuel pump in place being careful not to damage the float and then the rest of the pump goes straight in making sure nothing gets hung up.

Just like that, then make sure it's facing the correct direction, and now we could get the new lock ring over the fuel pump and push it down into place. With this, we want to hammer it clockwise until the ring turns all the way to walk down the new fuel pump and with the ring bottom down and turned all the way the pump is locked in place. Finally, let's connect our fuel lines and they just press on until you hear a click and always try to pull the connector off to make sure it's secure. Alright, now check out this tank.

This looks brand new, all cleaned up. We got the new fuel pump in there and we are ready to install it in the Trailblazer and, let's see if this thing actually runs and drives. So, let's Jack the tank up about half way. That way, we could connect our wiring harness to the fuel pump.

Good and that click it's in and do the same for the pressure sensor good and now we could carefully jack it up the rest of the way so that we could strap it. In now, I like to use a little bit of medium strength threadlocker on these bolts, so they don't back out due to vibration, then get it in there with the strap and hand, tighten it, and I'm going to be using a digital, torque wrench to torque these. To spec so they're supposed to be torqued down to 24 foot-pounds so set the wrench to that good, and as we tighten this down, a rapid beep means we're close and a solid beep means. We met the specified, torque perfect same thing for the rear, strap and tighten the bolt in place and torque it down to spec.

Now in every video I make, I always get comments asking. How do I find the correct torque spec for each bolt because it varies from car to car and bolt to bolt so where I get my torque specs well, multiple places, one I search online and two. I use repair manuals like this and at the beginning of each chapter you can see we have the fuel and exhaust systems. Chapter it'll tell you the torque, whatever fastener you're.

Looking for, for example, the fuel tank mounting strap bolts, the ones that we just tightened 24 foot-pounds is right there. So this is super helpful, I'm figuring out what the correct torque spec is for the fasteners on your vehicle, all right. So now, let's lower and remove the jack from under the tank and let's go to the front of the tank and attach those fuel lines. The only trick to this is you want to push the connector until you hear a click that click lets.

You know it's secured, so do the same with the other fuel line, good and now they're both securely connected next at the back of the tank, let's install the hose onto the fuel tank, so wiggle it onto the tank until it can't go any further down and Then tighten the hose clamp, so it's snug and the hose won't come off and with that done, let's bolt up the new charcoal canister. So out with the old melted one and in with the new junkyard one. Next we could torque down the three bolts that hold it in and now let's connect the three evap hoses to the charcoal canister and it's nice, because each one's a different size, so you can't mix them up then, on top of the fuel tank connect the wiring That goes to the purge solenoid and connect the vent tube to the tank, and, finally, we need to connect all three evapo cz's to the tank like so all right and with everything connected our fuel tank is completely in now. There's one more thing we need to do and that is install this crossmember.

So, let's finish this job up so align the crossmember hand, tighten the bolt in and then torque it down and the same, for the other side, hand tighten the bolt and then torque it down and finally put the fuel pump relay back in reconnect the negative terminal Onto the battery and then cover the fuse box - and that leaves us with one last thing we need to do and that is fill up the gas tank, so we could try to start it up. So, let's do that now we want to fill this to at least a quarter of a tank, so there's enough fuel for the fuel pump to prime properly and, as we add fuel, it's a good idea to look for leaks and the most likely place. We're gon na get leaks is right here where our hose connects to the gas tank, and in this case I don't see any leaks. So that's good so about five gallons later, let's tighten the gas cap and we are good to go all right moment of truth.

What we've all been waiting for starting this car up now, since we just put a new fuel pump in and there's new fuel in there? What we're gon na do is we're gon na turn, the key to the run position. The fuel pump is priming right now. They just stop priming we're gon na do it again, and this is gon na pressurize those fuel lines. It's gon na push all the air out and push all the new fuel in also it's a good idea go under the car, where you attached your fuel lines and make sure, since it's now pressurized, there are no leaks, and this is leak free.

So, with those fuel lines pressurized, let's start her up man, she started right up that misfire is completely gone. This engine feels buttery smooth that idles good. We have good oil pressure, the alternator's charging. This looks good, no check engine lights, whoo baby, and this sounds so so good.

Let's go for a ride and see how she drives all right, so we've been driving around for about 20 minutes. Now we filled her up with gas. The tank is full. The operating temperature is consistent, she's, not overheating.

That misfire we had in the beginning is completely gone with the new tank, so that's fixed. The engine is super smooth. The transmission shifts nicely. I mean everything that the car is tracking straight, which is great.

There's no clunks in the suspension, everything is working. This is just this is great. What do you think cute? I can't agree more all right. Let's finish up this test drive and head home? Okay, so we did it.

We fixed this $ 500 car for less than $ 1,000 total, including the purchase price of this car. How awesome is that we spent $ 70 to replace this old muffler and install a brand new one. We spent $ 100 to replace this old melted fuel tank with a junkyard version that works perfect and for reliability. We spent two hundred and thirty dollars replacing this old fuel pump with a brand new OEM one.

So, together we spent $ 400 plus $ 500 for the car, so $ 900 in total, and this car right now as it sits, is worth about $ 3,000. So a $ 2,100 profit and the best part is my favorite part. We brought a car back from the dead. This car was destined for the scrapper and we fixed it at home.

Our selves using common hand, tools, 150, P, socket, set a saw, a hammer, screwdrivers pliers. That is all it takes to fix. Something like this. You could do this at home, but wait there's more, although this car runs and drives great, it's incredibly dirty inside and out, look at how dirty these carpets are.

So this interior needs a real good cleaning. Also, the door trim needs to be installed on both sides and we need to fix our center console which doesn't latch, and finally, the outside of the car is a mess. The paintwork needs some paint correction, because I mean look at this. It's oxidized and dull and faded because of the Sun, so in the next video I'm gon na show you how to detail this car and do a full paint correction by hand.

We're gon na go from this to this, and this to this, so there's gon na be a lot of tips and tricks in that video, so stay tuned, but there you go for now. You just learn how to buy yourself an affordable project car and fix it up at home on a budget using common hand tools. How great is this? I love it, so hopefully you guys enjoyed the video and learned a lot. If you did remember to give the video a thumbs up, if you're not a subscriber consider hitting that subscribe button for more videos just like this, and for the next video on cleaning this car up and as always all the tools and products I used in this Video are linked in the description.

Stay tuned.