Hey guys, Chrisfix here and today I'm going to show you how to install an E85 conversion kit for your car or truck. That way you could run on the normal gasoline that you're used to or you could run on ethanol. Let me show you. now at the gas pump, you have your normal black nozzle right there for a regular mid-grade and premium fuel.

but sometimes there's a yellow nozzle like this and this is for E85 and ethanol based fuel made from corn. Now you might be wondering what's the point of converting your car to E85 what's the benefit and I'd say there's three main reasons. First, it's all about saving money and here's a perfect example of that. At this gas station you can see: premium is 6.30 and E85 is 3.30 So that's a three dollar savings per gallon.

Here's another station you can see: premium is four dollars and forty cents and E85 is 2.60 So you're saving a dollar eighty per gallon. Now let's just say, for whatever reason, you can't save money at the pump running E85 Don't worry, the second benefit of running E85 is if you have a boosted engine such as a supercharged engine or a turbocharged engine or you have an engine with a high compression ratio, you're able to make more horsepower. The reason why is E85 is always over a hundred octane. Let me show you.

So my buddy Tavares took his Supra to do a Dyno run on 93 octane and that made 454 horsepower. Next, they filled her up with E85 and did another run and since the octane is over 100, they're able to increase the Boost and look at how much more power could be made. 672 horsepower. That's a huge increase.

And now the third and final benefit of E85 is it's environmentally friendly. So if you're running E85 you're emitting less carbon monoxide, nitrogen oxides, and Benzene as well as other particulates that are poisonous. Plus, if you have a race car that doesn't have cats, it smells way better than just straight gasoline, All right. So those are all the pros.

And like anything else, there are a couple of cons. For example: E85 absorbs water so you don't want to let the E85 sit in your gas tank for more than about six months. You want to make sure that you're constantly using the fuel. and another problem is you get about 15 to 25 percent less fuel economy.

It all depends on the car, so those are some cons now. I Will go over more pros and cons and more information about E85 in general in another video, but this video is focused on the installation so now you're probably wondering. okay I Want to install this on my car I Want to get an E85 conversion kit? Is it compatible? Well, let me show you how to easily find out. Just do a quick Google search for E-flex fuel and it takes you to this site Right here and at the top You can enter your make year, model and engine, then hit enter and now it'll either show you a compatible kit for your car like this or let's go back and plug in a car that's not compatible.

Then hit enter and you'll see it says that you can't run the kit. So once you know your car is compatible, here's everything you need to get it running on. E85 As always, we're using common hand tools to keep things simple. We have a multimeter.

we have a fuel line disconnect tool, some safety glasses, and wire loom protector, and this is the kit that we're going to be installing. This kit is from E-flex Fuel. It's called the E-flex Plus. It comes with a computer, ethanol sensor, a wiring harness, and a bunch of connectors.

You're not going to use all this, They give you more than you need and although this might look a little complicated, it's really not that bad. Let me show you. so here's the kit. all laid out for you to try to make this as simple as possible.

Once you understand how this works, installation is easy. So first we have our computer which connects right to the main harness. Now the main harness has a couple of branches and again very simple. We have our ground which will go right to a chassis ground in the engine bay.

We have our temperature sensor which will zip tie right on top of the engine to let the computer know if the engine is hot or cold. Then we have our ethanol sensor. This detects how much ethanol is in the fuel from zero percent all the way up to 85 percent and anything in between. So we could run a mixture of E85 and your normal gasoline.

And then finally we have our fuel injector connectors. We have a four cylinder, so here are four connectors. If you have an eight cylinder, you have eight connectors I Think you get the idea and each one of these connects right to a fuel injector. And don't worry about the order, the computer figures out the order for you so you can put in any order you want and that's all you need to be able to run.

E85 Now I'll be sure to put a link to the conversion kit as well as the tools that I'm using down in the description so you could easily find them. and I Do want to mention this company sent me out a couple of these kits over three years ago because they're hoping I'd make a video. but I didn't know enough about E85 and I didn't know if these kits were any good. So you guys know how I am I Spent the last three years testing out this kit on two different vehicles to make sure the fuel pump wouldn't go out, the fuel injectors wouldn't go bad, the fuel lines wouldn't degrade, and just overall learn how this works.

So let me show you So unfortunately there's no local E85 pumps. so in order to test this for you guys I Had to buy a bunch of these five gallon cans and keep them around. But that's okay because it was worth it. Check this out! So I've drifted this car multiple times with this kit but this is my first time drifting the go-kart track and it's a little tight but a lot of fun and there are no issues at all running.

E85 even on the track on is the Del Sol because we are turbocharging the Del Sol and turbocharged engines. Love E85 because the high Octane Now this car was a great test as well because it sat for over a year and when I had to go start her up she started right up no problem. So both of these cars have been running great on E85 I have no complaints. So after years of running E85 I've had no issues and I have no problem recommending this kit to you guys.

So I do want to thank Eflex Fuel for supporting the video and sending me out these kits that way I could show you how to get your car to run on. E85 So let's get started and the first thing we're gonna install is the ethanol sensor and this connects right to the rubber fuel line. Now before you go disconnecting any fuel lines, there are two very important things we need to do. One, you need to make sure your engine is cool, do not work on a hot engine.

If you leak any fuel on a hot engine, it could catch fire and that wouldn't be good and two fuel systems are usually pressurized. So we need to remove the pressure from the fuel system so when we disconnect it, it doesn't squirt fuel everywhere. And the easiest way to do that is to disconnect the battery and let it sit overnight and then the fuel pressure will slowly bleed off. Now in this car, the battery's in the trunk, so after you remove a couple covers, use a 10 millimeter wrench to disconnect the negative cable from the battery and let the car sit overnight so the fuel pressure bleeds off.

Now if you don't want to wait overnight, a quick way to remove fuel pressure that works on most Vehicles is to find the fuse box and then find your fuel pump fuse and remove it and to find the correct fuse to pull. Just check the back of your owner's manual and if you take a look at the fuse box diagram, you can see right there is the fuel pump fuse which is that one right there. So you want to carefully get your pliers and pull that fuse out and then all you do is go in the car and try to start it. It could start up, install or it might not start at all, but just crank that engine over a couple times so the fuel injectors fire and bleed that fuel pressure off and that'll remove most, if not all the fuel pressure so you could safely work on the fuel system.

So once you know your fuel system isn't pressurized anymore, now, you could go in there and disconnect the fuel line. Now in our case, the fuel line is buried all the way back here. Of course it's underneath this wiper cowl. so we're gonna have to remove this cow in order to get to it.

So first, we need to unbolt the windshield wiper arm, which is held in by two 14 millimeter nuts and then the wiper arm comes right off. Now we could get the other wiper arm off and this has a cap hiding the nut, so pop that off and then break the nut loose. Remove it the rest of the way. Now we need to fold the wiper upwards a little making sure we don't hit the hood and the wiper should come right off.

Good. Now we can pop the plastic cowl off and to remove this, it's held in by some clips right here. so just get a flathead screwdriver, press the clip inwards and lift up like that. So now you want to pop out all the clips holding this in and then the entire cowl is free.

But in order to remove it, this part at the end has to be removed to give us enough clearance. So get your flathead screwdriver in there and pop this out Good. And now the cowl could be completely be removed. So with the cowl removed, you can see we have a metal piece right here.

It's like a tray and we need to get this removed so we can get back under here. In order to remove this tray, we need to remove the wiper assembly right here and that has four bolts. one here, one here, and then we have one there and one back in that corner and this could come right out. So first let's disconnect the harness from the wiper motor and then the harness is connected right here to the wiper assembly.

So use the panel clip pliers to pry that off. And then there's a couple more panel Clips holding in the wiring harness so let's remove those as well. Good and now our wiring harness is free from that metal under tray. So now let's remove these four 10 millimeter bolts.

So that's one, that's two and three, and finally our fourth and last one. Good. And now the wiper assembly comes right out. and now we have easier access to our under tray, which we need to remove and it's held in by a bunch of bolts.

There's one there, there's one back there, another one back there. It's probably one. Yeah, there's one underneath all that. So let's clean up all this and then let's remove these bolts and remove the tray so we can install the ethanol sensor.

so vacuum out all the debris and now we can easily see the five 10 millimeter bolts that we need to remove. So let's get all these out and then we could slide over to the other side and then we can remove the last six bolts holding this in foreign ly you want to pop this plastic divider out and then the whole wiper tray could be carefully removed and the last thing to do is pop off the engine cover. I removed. Check this out.

We have a ton of room to work back here. Here is our fuel line right here comes from the fuel tank. We could disconnect it from this black box so this will come off and if we follow the fuel line down, it goes right back here. Let's see if I could fit you in here.

You can see the fuel line coming into this quick disconnect and then that goes into the fuel rail. and if we want to remove this, all we have to do is disconnect it from there. But before we do that, what I say we do is disconnect it from here and see what we have to work with. Now before you go and disconnect this fuel line, make sure you are wearing your safety glasses so that you don't get any fuel in your eyes.

Okay, so all we need to do is pry this clip back a little bit and now you can just pop this door open like so. and then the fuel line connector holder pops right off. Now don't forget to put a paper towel below this to soak up any residual fuel that comes out of the line. and then you just need to press in the little yellow buttons on the side of the fuel line, give it a pull and it should come right off like that.

It's also a good idea to cover the fuel line so nothing Falls in it and clogs your injectors. So now's the part where you got to get creative and figure out where where you're going to place your Flex Fuel sensor. Originally I thought this was a rubber hose and then we could just cut into it and put our Flex Fuel sensor in line right about there. But the problem is if you take a look here, this actually isn't a rubber hose, it is a plastic hose with a rubber coating to protect it so we can't cut into this.

So the next idea I Had: let's run the hose right here and put our Flex Fuel sensor right here. That looks really good as well. But if you take a look down here, this hose is incredibly close to the exhaust. It's actually touching the exhaust right now, even if we try to move it over like that.

It's way too close for comfort because exhaust and gasoline does not mix. That's how you start a fire. So what? I Think what we're gonna do is we'll just go and we'll disconnect the hose from the fuel rail right back here and run our own hose which comes with the kit. So let's pop off this fuel connector holder and don't forget a towel to soak up any residual.

Fuel And then to remove this, we're going to be using a metal fuel line disconnect tool. So get this around the fuel line and at this point we just want to grab the tool and push it towards the fuel line to release the fuel line. Now this is easier said than done. Sometimes you need a little more leverage, but don't worry I Have a trick and that trick is to grab a hose Grip Pliers Like this with the circle tip and this works amazing for getting fuel lines off.

and then we can get our pliers behind the fuel line tool and then use the pliers for leverage to push the tool outwards. Just like that. Perfect! And now we can pull the fuel line off the fuel rail and don't forget about your fuel line disconnect tool. All right.

So with our fuel line removed, now what we could do is use our conversion kit and all the adapters in here to make our own setup to run our ethanol sensor. Now if you take a look at the fitting on your stock fuel line, you want to find the size of it. In this case, it is 7.89 7.95 Those are weird numbers because it's a metric size for 5 16 of an inch. so this fits a 5 16 of an inch fuel line.

Now the kit gives us two different size fittings. We have the 7.89 which is the OEM size. This is what's going to fit onto our car and then we have the 9.49 which fits onto our flex fuel sensor and it's important that we don't mix these up. Let me show you why.

So so at the car's URL If we try to put on these 9.49 size fittings that fit onto the ethanol sensor, you can see how loose it is. You can actually see some of the gas leaking out. so if you see something this loose, you know it doesn't fit. But then if we get our 7.89 sized fitting, it clicks right in place and there's barely any side to side movement.

Just a little bit of front and back movement which is normal. And another thing I'd like to mention, don't connect the hose directly to the fuel rail if it's not designed for it. This is designed for a quick disconnect fitting. so even if we tighten this down all the way, this hose could still come off if it's under pressure now.

I Always like to draw a quick diagram because it helps me visualize how I'm going to install this and I think it also helps you guys see what's going to happen. So let's start right here at the fuel rail that connects to the engine and then work our way back to the fuel line that goes to the fuel tank. So we need to go connect to that ethanol sensor and the best way to do that would be a 90 up and a 90 at the ethanol sensor. Now we could easily connect those two with a straight hose.

Now from the ethanol sensor to this fuel line, We'll add a straight and we'll have another straight and then we'll have a slight Bend in our fuel line. There's a pretty good distance here so that's not going to be a problem. So that's going to be the basic setup. Now we'll grab the connector from the fuel rail and let me show you how to properly connect it to our fuel line.

Okay, so the first thing we need to do is Slide The hose clamp over the hose before you do anything else and you can see the end of our fuel line. Connector doesn't have an O-ring which is fine, but some do like this one and if there's an O-ring make sure you lubricate it with motor oil. but in this case no o-ring means we could just slide that hose right onto our connector dry so press the hose onto the fitting so it goes all the way to the base of the connector and then we can slide the hose clamp on, leaving a little space at the end of the hose and then tighten this down so it's snug. You don't want to over tighten this because the connectors just made of plastic now.

I Want to mention something? That's pretty important. Only use the hose clamps that come with the kit. These are specialized fuel injector hose clamps or fuel line hose clamps that don't loosen easily. They don't pinch the hose and they tighten down evenly.

Compare that to a regular hose clamp which could definitely pinch the hose. It could definitely damage it. They don't tighten down as evenly and this can could come loose. and any of those things could create a fuel leak which could start a fire so only use the fuel injector hose clamps that come with the kit.

It's a small detail, but pretty important. So now let's go get this installed and we'll install this fitting with the entire fuel line and then measure it up and cut it with this in the car. So you always want to lubricate where the fitting slides onto with some motor oil. That way, the O-rings in the fitting don't get pinched when you install them, Then you want to just push the fitting on until it clicks just like that and give it a few pulls to make sure it's locked in.

Now we can get the fuel line up here and this is where our ethanol sensor is going to go. So let's remove the dust cap and lubricate the end of the tube. and then we can push our 90 degree fitting right onto that ethanol sensor until it clicks good and that's locked on there. Now with a paint pen.

let's mark where we want to cut our fuel line. So now we could cut the hose and try to keep this cut as straight as possible. Then get your hose clamp on the hose and then we want to push the fitting in, but notice there's an o-ring on this one, so lubricate that with a little bit of oil and now we can push it in all the way just like that and then tighten down the hose clamp so it's snug good. Now we can get the dust cap off the other side of the sensor, lubricate the tube, and slide on the connector until it clicks, then lubricate the O-ring on the connector and slide that fuel line all the way onto the connector like that, and snug up that hose clamp.

Good! Finally, let's get the towel out of the way and our fuel line will go pretty much right there. So lubricate the end of the metal fuel line and we're using a straight connector on here. And now we just need to line up our fuel line and that looks pretty good. so let's mark it, then cut it and don't forget the hose clamp.

Then we can remove the connector from the hard line and this will just make it a lot easier for me to press the fuel line on all the way. And then finally, let's tighten down the hose clamp so it's snug and then we can push this back on so it clicks into place. Good! And just like that, our flex fuel sensor is installed. All the connectors clicked in nice and tight and I made sure that they're not loose.

All the hose clamps are tightened down so they're snug right over here. We don't have a tight radius. this is more than a three inch radius, which is what you need at least three inches. That way it doesn't.

Kink And then over here we're not touching anything. We're not touching the engine with the fuel line. The only thing we're touching is this right here. right on the hose clamp.

It's slightly touching the plastic piece here and to fix that, what I'm going to do is just turn this. So just grab your pliers and let's squeeze the clamp and slide it over. Then do the same thing to the other clamp good and now the plastic piece is free to turn and check it out. Now our ethanol sensor doesn't come in contact with anything.

Now let's get these hose clamps back in place. and for this side, I'm going to remove this connector. It's just going to give me a little bit more room to slide that clamp back good and then now we can just reconnect it and the last thing to do is to zip tie the ethanol sensor so it doesn't move around as you're driving. Now one thing I noticed is how close this fuel line is to the valve cover and although there is space and it's not touching, I'm going to add some wire loom protector to this hose Overkill probably.

but you can never be too safe, especially with the fuel system and it's just so easy to get this on here that it's totally worth it. And just like that now, the fuel line is extra protected and while we're here, we might as well protect the other fuel on as well. So let's get this wire loom on here. Good.

Now you guys know I Like doing everything. 110 These are the OEM connectors that held each of these in place. You guys remember we took these off and unfortunately because of the shape of the new connectors, they don't fit. but I think we could cut some of this out to make it work.

So let's give it a shot. Now, if we try to fit the fuel line in there, you can see it fits, but the problem is since it has a hose clamp, it prevents the door from closing and latching and you can clearly see how the hose clamp is getting in the way. So let's remove the fuel line and let's mark where the hose clamp is so we could try to clearance it. And to do this.

I'm using a rotary tool with a drill bit and since it's only plastic, it cuts through this like a hot knife through butter. So let's finish removing all the green, then let's blast it with some air to remove the dust and now we can test fit and see how we did. Okay, well that fits in there nice and snug, but will the door close and latch? Beautiful! Now that's what I'm talking about. You can see how well that's clearanced for the hose clamp.

Now let's go get this installed. Oh man, this is going to look just like from the factory. so get this on the fuel line and then we can push this onto the connector and now let's close that door so it clicks Perfect! So let's go try to get the other one to fit as well. So this one's going to be a little bit tougher because as you can see, there isn't a lot of extra material on this holder.

But let's see what we could do. So if we take a look at the connector, you can see our connector here is just too fat to fit in here. But I think we can make it work if we shave down the edges so I'll mark the spots that I think I'm going to have to shave down and that looks good. So let's see what we could do.

First, let's cut off this end piece because this is way too small to fit on our new hose anyway. And then now let's use a rotary tool to grind out the plastic inside the connector and then to remove the sharp edges. I'm using a Deburr tool that way we don't cause any damage to the connector and Moment of Truth Well that definitely fits. So let's see if it works with our fuel line and the whole point of this holder is to prevent movement like this.

So let's see if our cutting did the trick and check it out. That works perfect now again. I Do want to mention you don't need to do what I just did with those fuel connector holders. It works perfectly fine without them.

I Just like going above and beyond, making things as perfect as possible. and I think it looks pretty good. It's almost OEM So now our ethanol sensor has been completely installed. We are ready for our next step and that is to install our wiring harness.

Now this connects to our fuel injectors and our fuel injectors are located right here. So there's one, there's another, there's another, and our last one is right there. So let me show you how to connect the harness to the injectors. So first, let's disconnect each connector from the fuel injector.

and to do that, there's a tab on the side that you just want to press in and pull up and do that for the second injector and the third injector and finally the last injector is hard to get to. So I'm using the hose Grip Pliers which work great to help pop this connector off. Okay so with all the fuel injector connectors disconnected, now what we need to do is we need to figure out which side of the connector is the positive side and which side is the negative side. We can't go off of colors with the wires because that won't tell you for sure.

And another thing is with fuel injectors, they are ground side switched. so the computer is sending the signal by interrupting the ground so we can't check for continuity with the ground. instead. What should happen is all of these: the positive side should be connected, so we should have continuity on the positive side to each one of these and that's how we could find the positive side.

If this doesn't make sense, don't worry, it will in a second. It's super simple, so let me show you. So now you need to grab your multimeter and you're going to have to set it to the continuity mode where it beeps. So set it there and to ensure you're in the right mode, just touch the two leads together and it'll beep.

Now we want to grab our connectors for the fuel injectors and make sure they're oriented in the same direction. We could start with two right here and I bent a little paper clip so that we could pin this so we just want to pin one of the sides and then we could get one of the leads on there. and then now we want to test the other side. You could hear it's beeping so that means we are connected.

There is continuity. If we test the other one, there is no continuity. So this is the positive side. Now just to verify, just to make sure let's test the other side.

And if we touch here, there's nothing. and if we touch here, there's nothing. So if we go back okay, we know for sure these first ones are the positive side. So I'm just going to get a marker and mark it red that way.

I know for sure this is the positive side now. I'm going to keep this connected and I'm going to test the other ones just to double check to make sure they are all the same so make sure they're all in the same orientation and then we could test it positive, positive, positive, and just double check and there's no beep there. so we're good to go. These two are positive as well, so let's mark these as well.

that way we don't mess this up. Then finally, once we know all the positive sides, we could disconnect this and we're done with the multimeter. Now you might be wondering why we had to find the positive side. That's because all the connectors we're going to connect to the fuel injectors, they each have one of these open connectors that we need to make our own connector for.

So this one right here. this will plug right into the fuel injector, but this one right here has to plug into these and we need to figure out which side the positive goes on. so they give us four of these. All we have to do is find the correct orientation for this, make sure it clicks in, mark it so we know it's positive.

and now the reason why we mark this is so we don't get this mixed up because we're gonna have to flip this around. Just makes it so much easier to mark it. So our red wire here goes on the red the positive side. so just push that in all the way until it clicks good.

Give it a tug, make sure it doesn't come out and we're good. and then the other wire could just go on the other side again. Make sure you push it all the way in so it clicks good. Give it a tug, and we're good to go here.

Beautiful! So that is one harness completed. Now just follow the same process for the other harnesses Mark the positive side of the connector and then push the red wire into the red side of the connector until it clicks, then push the other wire into the other side until it clicks and that's all there is to it. So wire up the third harness again, making sure both wires click in and then wire up the fourth and final harness. Good.

And now the wiring is completely done. Now you just want to make sure you connect one harness to one injector. It doesn't matter which order you could mix and match, It doesn't matter, but you just want to make sure this one is going to connect to one of them. This one is going to connect to another one you don't want to like cross like this.

That would be bad. Now, instead of connecting the stock harness back into the fuel injector, we're going to connect the stock harness to our aftermarket one that we just made that snaps in just like that. and then our other side of the aftermarket one will connect to the fuel injector. so push it all the way down until it clicks.

Now do the same thing to the other three harnesses we wired up. connect one side to the stock harness and the other side to the fuel injector. Same for fuel injector number three and we could finish up at Fuel Injector number four. And I'm using a flathead screwdriver to push the injector in because there isn't much room here.

And finally, I'm just tucking the connectors and wires in here so they aren't sticking out. Okay, so all our wires are connected to the fuel injectors I Kind of tucked them in so they're a little more neat and organized. and then now what we need to do is run our wiring harness and this wiring harness is a mess. It's spaghetti.

but don't worry, we're gonna get this nice and neat and organized. But before we do that, we need to figure out a spot to mount our computer. We can't have this near any heat sources, so we don't want it on the engine, we don't want it near the exhaust, and we don't want this near any high voltage line. so we don't want it near any of these orange lines in the Prius or an alternator in a regular car.

So I think the best spot is going to be right here, right next to the car's computer. And with that, we could run our wire and make sure it's neat and organized. So let's go do that. Now the best way to organize this spaghetti is to grab the end of the wire and this goes to the computer and we're going to just move that off to the side.

and then we're going to start our hand here at the fuel injector wires and just run them down. Just like that and any loose wires will just move out of the way. So now we have a nice set of wires that are organized. Now what you could do is use a wire loom like this and put them in the wire loom but real quick.

I Don't want to forget, we do have that temperature probe that we need to put on the engine, so this we're going to tuck right next to our fuel injectors right where all the other wires are. so just bury it down there and this will let the computer know if it's doing a cold start or a hot start. Okay, so now we can get all the wires into a wire loom which will not only organize them and make it look like a factory installation, but this will also protect them from chafing. So push the wires into the loom and Slide the Loom all the way down to the end of the harness.

Okay, so with that done now, let's root this harness around the engine that looks pretty good like that. So I'm going to pop off this connector so the harness could be run right back here and then reconnect it. Now that way we won't forget. Then we could grab the end of the harness and let's snake it underneath the brake master cylinder here and also pull through the ethanol sensor wire and the ground wire which will connect in a second.

But first, let's connect the main harness to the computer so it clicks in. Good. Now let's install the ground wire which we could connect to any bare metal surface, but check this out. This is perfect because it reaches right to the stock grounding point and you can see right here where the stock wires are grounded and we could add our wire right to this.

So let's unscrew the grounding bolt and then run our ground wire between the two stock ones to keep that factory look and then just add the ground bolt and tighten it down so it's snug good. So with the ground done now all we have left is our ethanol sensor connector and we're going to just run that back here. It already has a wire loom protector on it so we're good to put that back there and then we're going to run this right to our sensor, make sure it snaps in good, that's connected, and then any extra wire you have left over just neatly group up like this. and then we could zip tie it off just to keep it neat and with this neatly wrapped and set aside, we are almost done.

The last thing I want to do is make sure that this is zip tied so it stays organized. I Don't want this flapping around so I'm going to zip tie it right here and once you've secured all your wires, the last thing we need to do before we test this kit out is make sure you install all the parts that you remove. So in this case, I removed this vacuum line here. We want to get that back in place before.

I Remove that connector. but I already reinstalled it. Just make sure everything is reinstalled because we're going to start the engine and see if everything works. Now, when we go and test this out, we're not going to reinstall that wiper shroud.

We're going to keep that off. So if there is a problem, we can easily see it. For example, the first thing and the most important thing we're going to look at when we start the engine is this ethanol sensor right here. We need to make sure that the fuel lines are not leaking both up here, over here and down there.

so it's very important. Right as you start the engine, you check that now. before we go start the car, we'll have to reconnect the negative battery cable and just make sure there's no gas fumes because this will spark and in this case, we're in the trunk so we're fine. So just snug that up and let's go start the car.

Okay, starter up all right. So right away let's check the fuel lines at the ethanol sensor and these are looking really good. I Don't see any leaks at all. so next we could check over here at this connection and again I don't see any leaks.

And finally let's come over here at the fuel rail and we are dry and leak free down here which is great now. besides a visual inspection, another thing to check is the app. so if we go to the app we can make sure everything is working properly. You can see we have RPMs up here.

We have 10 ethanol in our fuel right now which is normal. We're at 120 degrees Fahrenheit from our temperature sensor which means the sensor is working and all four of our injectors are orange down here which means they are all working. If one wasn't working, it would be grayed out and then we could go to this right here and then check the device status and you can see everything's working properly. So we did a good install.

all right, So we know the engine starts up perfectly, we know there are no fuel leaks at all and our system is completely installed. So now let's get that wiper cowl on and then let's go fill her up with E85 and go for a drive. So first, let's get the metal under tray in, but wait a second, this isn't clean. Now that's much better.

Amazing what a little bit of soapy water could do. Now we need to tighten down the 11 bolts that hold this tray in and they're small 10 millimeter bolts so they just need to be snugged up Next, Snap in this little divider over here and now we can get the wiper assembly in and then we have to tighten down the four bolts that hold this in, but they only get tightened down to four foot pounds so not very tight. Good. Next let's get the wiring harness and snap in all the clips that hold it in place and there's one last one right here.

And then finally we could plug this into the wiper motor. Now we can get the plastic cowl on which snaps in place and then we could get the first wiper arm in place and torque it to spec which is 17 foot pounds. Now we can get the other wiper arm on, tighten down the nut, torque it the spec, and then put the little cover back on. Let's also get the plastic piece at the end of the Shroud back on, so snap this in and then we can't forget about the engine cover which just pops into place.

and then the last thing to do is to come over here and secure the computer. Now you could use the bolt hole at the end of this and mount it to something. You could zip tie it, whatever you want. In this case, it's going on this fuse box.

so I Want to be able to set this off to the side? That way I can get to the fuses and in order to do that, I'm going to use some Velcro So let's get some alcohol in a towel and just wipe down the fuse box cover to remove any dirt and oils that might prevent the velcro from sticking and you're going to want to wipe down the back of the computer as well. Now let's get the velcro and stick it onto the back of the computer and this has VHB tape which is very strong so you don't have to worry about it coming off. And now a little trick to get the other velcro pieces aligned easily is to just connect the velcro to the other velcro pieces, then peel the plastic covers off. and now we're going to press the whole computer down onto the fuse box and with the VHB tape make sure you put a lot of pressure so that it sticks.

So let's give it a try. Perfect! and now the computer is mounted now real quick. You probably saw this in the kit and it's this little block. Now the reason why you have this is because let's just say your computer fails.

All you have to do is pull this out and then plug this in and this just bypasses everything so there's no more computer you can run on your normal gasoline. you can't run on E85 but you could run on normal gasoline until you figure out what your problem is. It's a good thing to keep in your glove box just in case. I've never had to use it, but it's a good idea to have in the kit.

and then the last thing to mention is these extra pieces that are kind of hanging off. They're capped off on the end. That's just so if you have a six cylinder or a eight cylinder, those are the extra ones that you would connect to. But we don't have that so they just sit off to the side like that.

So with our computer mounted we are completely done and look at how amazing this looks. It basically looks stock it looks Factory You can't even see that we did anything I mean maybe if you peek back there you might be able to see the flex fuel sensor. The only thing you could see is the computer and if you really wanted to, you could probably put that back there if you don't want anything visible in the engine bay and that's all there is to it. So now let's go fill it with some E85 But first, let's fix this gas cap because now we can actually run E15 to E85 No problem.

And just to be sure we're clear, let's add this E85 sticker onto the fuel door. Okay so now you guys remember that I said there are no E85 stations in my state so I have to use these cans of E85 instead and this is a 112 octane which is kind of funny pouring into a stock. Prius Now I did run the fuel tank down so there's only about four gallons left and this is a 12 gallon tank which means we should have a pretty high concentration of E85 And there we go. Let's get the cap in place and let's go for a ride.

All right and check it out. We are now driving around using E85 and if you take a look at the app, you can see the ethanol concentration is about 60 because we mixed it in with some fuel that was already in the tank. but that's fine. That's exactly why we installed the ethanol sensor, so that's all there is to it.

That's how you convert your car to run on E85 And if you have any questions at all, feel free to comment below and I'll answer them. Hopefully this video was helpful if it was. Remember to give it a thumbs up. If you're not a subscriber, consider hitting that subscribe button for more videos on how to fix and modify your car.

And as always, all the tools and products I used in this video are linked down in the description so you could easily find them.