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Transmission removal, replacement, and installation. Learn how to remove a transmission so you can replace your clutch or flywheel, or so you can rebuild your transmission and install a new one in your car or truck.
In this video I show you the 10 simple steps on how to replace a transmission. I am doing this on a rear wheel drive 98 Mustang but the process is very similar on other rear wheel drive, front wheel drive, and even automatic cars and trucks. Each detailed step will allow you to learn how to remove a transmission yourself so you can replace a clutch, flywheel, rear main seal, throw out bearing, pilot bearing, or just swap transmissions.
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Due to factors beyond the control of ChrisFix, I cannot guarantee against improper use or unauthorized modifications of this information. ChrisFix assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. Use this information at your own risk. ChrisFix recommends safe practices when working on vehicles and or with tools seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of ChrisFix, no information contained in this video shall create any expressed or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage, or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or from the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not ChrisFix.

Hey guys chris fix here and today, i'm going to show you how to remove and install a transmission in your car or your truck now the reason why you might need to remove a transmission, maybe you're, going to send it out to get rebuilt, or maybe you Have a clutch that's wearing out, so you need to replace the clutch. You could also have an oil leak at the rear of your engine where the engine and transmission meet, and that could be an indication that you have a bad rear, main seal. You could have a bed pilot bearing or a bed throw up bearing, which is exactly what happened to my mustang. Listen to this.

So, if we're in neutral and we go to start the car, take our foot off the clutch and that's a bad throwout. Bearing watch this, if i press on the clutch it goes away, but when i take my foot off the clutch, it comes right back so before i cause any damage. I'm gon na shut this off and let's get that fixed now in order to replace the throwout bearing as well as the other parts that i mentioned, you need to drop the transmission out of the car or truck, but don't worry it's not that difficult. I'm gon na show you all my tips and tricks on how to remove the transmission and then how to install it so that you'll be able to do this at home yourself, and here are all the tools that you're going to need.

You're going to need a ratchet a good socket set some extensions and you're definitely going to want one of these universal joint extensions to get to the hard to reach bolts, you're going to want a couple of wrenches, torque wrench and possibly a breaker bar you're. Also going to need a jack and jack stands, you're going to need a drain pan and some transmission fluid, and i highly suggest getting a transmission jack. I see a lot of guys try to take the transmission out using a regular jack a lot of times the transmission will fall over. You could crack the case.

That would be a very expensive mistake. This is inexpensive, i'll link it in the description totally worth to get. You could strap down the transmission it'll just make your job that much easier with the amount of money that you're saving. It's totally worth the investment, and that's just about everything.

You're gon na need to remove and install a transmission. So with that being said, let me show you the 10 steps to remove the transmission first. We need to safely lift the vehicle, then remove the negative battery cable. Remove the shifter exhaust drain, the transmission fluid disconnect the drive shaft, remove the starter, remove and set aside the wiring harness unbolt, the transmission mount and unbolt and remove the transmission, and, while that might seem like a lot, it's really not that bad.

What i did is i broke it down to a bunch of smaller easy to accomplish steps so that, as we do this job, we could stay organized and i will include a link in the description to this checklist, so you can download it and print it. If you want to use it with, that said, let's get started and the first step is to lift and support the vehicle and, as you can see, i already safely lifted the car up and put it on jack stands. Just like you would anytime you're working on your car, but i do have a few tips and tricks specifically for if you're removing the transmission, so let's cover them and the first one is. You need to make sure that your car is lifted high enough to remove a transmission transmissions are pretty big, so you need enough room to drop it down and slide it out.

In this case, i couldn't use ramps because my lowered car just wouldn't get lifted high enough. Well now, if you have a lift at home, great use it, but most people, including myself, don't have a lift so i'll, be using good old jack stands and instead of using your normal 3-ton jack stands. I went out and i bought myself. Some 12-ton jack stands.

The 12-ton jack stands will give you a lot more lift than your classic three ton, and i don't even have to extend the jack stand. So they're gon na be a lot more stable. Another trick when you're placing your jacks, you wan na, make sure you separate them as far apart as possible, so they're not right, underneath the transmission that way, you could get your transmission jack under there and have plenty of room to work and drop that transmission out Without interfering with your jack stands, so for me the perfect place to put these jacks was right on the frame, rail and move them out far enough, and it's also on a nice solid support and my last quick tip for lifting your vehicle up has to do With safety, even though we have two jack stands in the front and two in the rear, i still like to go in the front and slide something underneath the front tires we're using a ramp, you could use a wheel whatever it is to keep you safe. I also like to put a jack on the front cross member lightly, supporting it just in case.

You never know if you're removing the transmission and then the transmission bumps the jack. Now the car is falling on a ramp and not falling on you. I always like to play it safe and when your car is safely lifted up now we can move on to the next step, which is to remove the negative battery cable, so pop open the cover and unscrew the clamp and slide the cable off the battery post Set aside the cable and make sure it doesn't touch the battery post so with the negative cable removed. Now we can go on to our next step and let's remove the shifter and the reason why you want to remove your shifter so early in the process.

This is our third step we haven't gotten under the car, we haven't, drained transmission, fluid done the exhaust any of that stuff which could get you greasy and dirty right now i could touch the interior and not have to worry about anything because my hands are clean. So make sure you do this first before you get your hands greasy now, let's make sure the car is in neutral and just unscrew the shift knob to remove it next, remove the shifter trim by prying it upwards and slide it off the shifter lever. Now we can unscrew these two nuts holding the shifter lever on and then slide the lever off. The shifter like so then there's four bolts holding in this shifter boot, so unscrew, all four of them, and because i have my hydro e-brake tied into one of these bolts, i need to slide the boot cover up and over to remove it.

Just like that. And finally, there's four bolts holding in the short shifter. So let's remove all these, and now we can remove the shifter and with our shifter removed, that's gon na give us a lot more room to drop the transmission down and nothing's gon na get hung up here. It'll also help when we fill the transmission with transmission fluid later on, because we could fill it from right here instead of the side of the transmission which becomes a mess.

So now we can move on to the next step, which is to remove the exhaust. Now you want to double check, because in some cars you might not need to remove your exhaust system to get your transmission out. In this case, our transmission runs from the front here all the way back to the x-pipe, so we definitely have to remove the exhaust. Luckily, we don't have to remove the entire exhaust we're going to just remove from the downpipe up here to the x-pipe right here, but before we do that, we want to disconnect our oxygen sensors and instead of unscrewing each oxygen sensor from the exhaust.

It's a lot easier to just disconnect them from the wiring harness so just press down on this and then pull them apart like so so, with the two downstream oxygen sensors disconnected now, we need to remove the two upstream oxygen sensors there's one on this side of The exhaust right there and there's one on the other side of the exhaust right there, so press down on the clip and pull to disconnect it. Now we can move to the other side and disconnect this oxygen sensor the same way good. So, with all the oxygen sensors disconnected now we can remove the nuts holding in this downpipe and holding in that downpipe. So, let's get started on the driver's side.

I like to spray down the exhaust fasteners with penetrating fluid any time i go to remove them, so they come off easier, especially if they're rusted. Now we can get our 18 millimeter socket and remove the top nut and then remove the bottom one good. Now, let's do the same thing on the other side, remove the top nut and for the bottom one we need to use a universal joint extension, because we don't have a straight shot at getting to that fastener, since the frame is in the way so remove this Nut good and with the two front, exhaust pipes disconnected now, we can move to the back bolts behind the x-pipe. There's four bolts that need to come out and using a ratcheting wrench makes this real, quick and easy.

Now, with all four rear, fasteners removed, we could separate the exhaust pipes and remove the exhaust from the car all right so with the front of our exhaust removed. Now we can go back under the car and our next step is to drain the transmission fluid. Now we want to do this because we're going to be removing the drive shaft, which means that fluid could come pouring out of the tail shaft, especially when we drop the transmission down. We don't want to make a mess so draining it now will prevent that mess.

We also are going to be replacing the clutch you might as well get some new fluid in there, so draining it out and filling up with some new fluid later will definitely help out and finally draining the fluid out. Now is going to lighten up this transmission. The lighter the transmission, the easier it is to remove. So, let's get that transmission fluid out of here and all you have to do right over here we have the transmission drain, plug you're, just going to get a box end of a 3 8 ratchet and just crack it open.

Like so, don't forget the drain pan and let's loosen this the rest of the way beautiful now we're going to let all this fluid drain out and once it drains completely, we could screw the drain bolt back in and tighten it up, don't over. Tighten it just make it snug, because you could easily strip the threads in the aluminum transmission case, all right and with our transmission fluid removed. Now we can move on to our next step, which is to remove the drive shaft. We don't have to worry about the drive shaft on this end, because this just slides out once we remove the bolts where the drive shaft meets the differential.

Now there's four bolts holding this in since we're neutral, let's spin the drive shaft, you can see. There's two bolts right here and there's two bolts on the other side. Now you want to set the parking brake that way when we get our wrench on here and we turn it. The drive, shaft doesn't move and one thing to keep an eye on with drive.

Shaft bolts a lot of times, they're, not the normal six point bolt that you're used to in this case we're removing 12 point bolts, so just make sure that you're using a 12 point wrench or a 12 point socket when you're removing these bolts. Because the six point will strip this out so again with the 12 point wrench on here now we could remove these bolts, oh man, and that is not budging. Sometimes these get stuck on there, pretty good. So, to loosen the bolt heat up, the metal surrounding the bolt - and i'm also going to be using a longer wrench to give me more leverage and there we go.

That's how you remove a stuck driveshaft bolt now follow the same process for the other bolts heat. It up then loosen it and remove it now: release the e-brake and spin the drive shaft. So we have access to the two. Other bolts then engage that e-brake again and the same as before heat around the bolt loosen it up and remove it heat it around.

The bolt loosen it up and remove it now the drive shaft should come right out back here and in the front we want to slide it out with a catch can under the end of the transmission, just to catch any extra fluid that might leak out and One trick i have is to get a sandwich bag and open it up around the end of the transmission. So when we lower it down, it won't leak everywhere. If it tilts backwards all right and with this drive shaft removed. We are one step closer to removing the transmission, so let's get back underneath the car and work on the next step, which is to remove the starter.

The starter is located right where the engine and transmission meet, and, in this case it's on the passenger side right over here. So there are three bolts that are holding in our starter, all of them you have to get to from this back side. The first one is right here: the second one is right here and the third one. You can't even see it's tucked up back here.

So let's start with these two, which are a lot easier to remove. First get the oxygen sensor wire out of the way. Then we need to break this nut free and then unscrew it and remove this metal mount, which is in the way now, let's remove the first bolt holding in the starter good and with that bolt out, we don't have to disconnect any wires back here, because we're Going to just have this starter hang right over here. We don't have to remove it completely.

We just need to get it out of the transmission bell housing, so the next bolt we need to remove. Is this one right here and you can kind of feel it on the back here, but there's no room in here to get a ratchet. So what we're going to do is we're going to come around to the front of the engine and that's going to give us better access. So if you take a look into this gap right here, you can see the second bolt that we need to get to and now to get all the way to that bolt we're going to be using a long extension so slide that extension, all the way in And get it on that bolt head, then we can break it loose and loosen it.

The rest of the way and i'll get my hand back here, good now to get to the third hard to reach bolt, which is all the way back here. Well, the trick to removing that bolt is to use a little quarter inch ratchet with an extension and we'll get this ratchet back behind the starter, get the socket on the bolt and break it loose and there's just enough room to move the ratchet back and forth To unscrew the bolt so with that bolt removed now we can remove the starter and set it aside. So it's out of the way, and now we can move on to the next step, which is to disconnect the wiring harness. We have a wiring harness that runs along the top of the transmission and it's clipped into the transmission.

So we want to disconnect it. We don't actually have to remove it from the car, just disconnect it and set it off to the side so that we can lower the transmission down without this getting hung up. So we're going to start back here at the end of the wiring harness there's a clip right here that we're going to remove using one of these trim removal tools, so stick it underneath the clip and then pry upwards good. Now we have the speed sensor right here, which needs to get disconnected so just press down on the tab and pull this out, and then we have a clip here.

That needs to be popped out. The reverse light switch here which could just be unplugged and the other clip which could be popped out as well. Now we can set aside the harness and let's remove the dust cover on the transmission, so we could remove the clutch cable. This is the clutch cable and to remove it, get a pry bar and release the pressure from the clutch fork and slide.

The cable up and out of the fork then use a flathead screwdriver to remove the retaining clip and then the clutch cable could be removed from the transmission and, finally, the last step before we remove the transmission, we need to remove the rear transmission mount right here. There's two bolts: there's one there and there's one there, but before we unbolt this, we need to support the transmission, so it doesn't just fall that could put unwanted stress on the motor mounts in the front. So let's slide the transmission jack in and crank it up. Good now we could strap down the transmission using the strap built into the jack and make sure it's tight, so this transmission won't fall off the jack so with the transmission being strapped in and held up by the transmission jack.

Now we could remove the two bolts holding in this transmission mount starting with the driver's side bolt and once that's loose, just wiggle it out like so, and let's break free and remove the second and last bolt holding in this mount good, all right. So with our transmission mount unbolted wow, look at this. There is so much play in this transmission. Mount we're gon na have to replace that.

But anyway, with this unbolted, we've completed all of our steps, so we could finally unbolt and remove the transmission and to do that, we need to unbolt the transmission from the engine. There are nine bolts holding this transmission in there's three bolts on this side. There's two bolts under the transmission there's two bolts on top of the transmission and there's two bolts on the other side. Now, to give you a better idea of where all the bolts are laid out, here's what it looks like without the transmission you can see.

We have three bolts on the driver's side. We have two bolts on the bottom. We have the two bolts on the passenger side and then the two bolts at the top, and now that you know where all nine bolts are located. This is actually really simple.

The hardest ones are the two at the top, but don't worry they're not that bad to get to, and i have a trick to make it really easy. So let's get started and remove the three bolts on the driver's side over here. That's one two and three, and with those three bolts removed you saw how easy that was now: let's remove the bottom two bolts. So let's get this one off right here, good and then the other one as well good and then there's two more bolts on the passenger side.

That's one and that's the other all right now. We only have two more bolts on the top of the transmission and we can't see them on the passenger side. So we have to go to the driver's side in the back and if you look all the way on the top, you can see the bolt head right there and the other bolt which is right. Next to this bolt, you can't see it's on the other side of the transmission, but it's right next to it only a few inches to the side.

So there are two ways to get to the two top bolts. The first way is to lower the transmission down a little bit with the jack, so it tilts the motor and backwards and then get a really long extension with a universal joint at the end and we're gon na slide. That extension in and that'll allow us to get to both the driver's side bolt and the passenger side bolt. But i have another method that works for this car and it's a lot easier and the second method is to grab a long ratcheting wrench and get to both of those bolts from the back of the engine bay.

So we're gon na start with the passenger side. Bolt just get that wrench on there and let's break it free perfect. This is way easier than trying to do this from below the car. Now do the same thing on the driver's side break it free, unscrew it and remove the bolt, and, with this last bolt out, all the transmission bolts have been removed.

Now what i like to do is i like to place them in order and exactly how they came out of the transmission. That way you stay organized and know which bolts go exactly where so. We have our two bottom bolts. We have the three driver's side.

Two passenger side and two top bolts, so with all the bolts out now we could go underneath the car and finally remove the transmission. Now before we go and remove the transmission over the years. There's a lot of dust buildup inside that bell housing from the clutch, and we don't want to breathe that dust in it's very, very bad, also older clutches could be made with asbestos. So what i like to do is just get some plain water and spray down the inside of the bell housing.

This will get a lot of that dust wet, so it doesn't become airborne. The less dust the better. I also recommend that you use a good respirator like this full face. Respirator has two p100 filters filters out: 99 of airborne particles, it'll also protect your eyes and i'll be sure to link this in the description.

So you know the right one to get for this job and one more quick tip before we separate the transmission. We want to support the engine. If we remove the transmission, the engine can tilt backwards or it could tilt forwards and could cause damage. So just use your jack with a piece of wood to evenly distribute the load on the oil pan and lightly jack up the engine.

We don't want to press hard on it. We just want to support it. Now we can finally separate the transmission from the engine and i like to use a pry bar to get it started because sometimes they could get stuck on there then wiggle the transmission loose a little and pull it straight back and again from the other side, i'm Using a pry bar to separate it even further now with a little pulling and wiggling beautiful, the transmission should come right out just like that, so let's lower it down and we can remove it from under the car all right with the transmission removed. Now you want to replace the parts that went bad like this, throw out bearing look at how much play is in here, and that was definitely what was making the noise.

So we need to replace this with a new one, now's, also a good time to check for play in the input shaft the engine spins this. So it's an important part of the transmission. There should be no play. Oh man, that's not good! There shouldn't be this much play in the input shaft, you see how much movement there is up and down and side to side on a good transmission.

This wouldn't budge. So that means that this transmission needs a rebuild. So luckily, with the magic of editing out with the old and in with the new, so i ended up getting a completely rebuilt transmission. Everything inside of here is brand new, and you can see the input shaft now has no play at all in it perfect, and since i had to remove the transmission to replace the throwout bearing i figured now would be a good time to replace the clutch pressure Plate flywheel rear main seal and pilot bearing, but i'm not going to cover that in this video i made an entire video on how to replace a clutch and all these other parts and i'll be sure to link that video in the description.

So you could easily find it so i'm going to get all these parts into the car good and now we could go and install the new transmission. Now the old transmission has a few parts. We need to move over from the old one to the new one and the first thing being this transmission mount. So let's remove the mounting bracket by removing these two nuts good and then the mount itself is held in with two bolts.

So, let's remove those and the mount comes right off now we want to remove the speed sensor located on the side of the transmission, so remove the single bolt holding it in and the sensor should pull right out. So, let's transfer this over to our new transmission, remove the plug, push the speed sensor in and finally snug up the bolt holding this in good. Now, let's install the transmission mount and if you guys remember this transmission mount was shot. I mean look at that came right apart in my hands so out with the old broken mount and in with a nice brand new one.

So let's go get this installed so screw both bolts by hand - and i am using medium strength thread locker on these threads. Then we can torque down both of these bolts to 80 foot. Pounds now add the lower bracket, and then that gets torqued to 50 foot-pounds and the last thing we need to do is install our new clutch fork and throughout bearing and that just slides right in just like that, beautiful now we could go and install the transmission. Now, before we go and try to mount the transmission up against the engine, what i want to do, there's a metal support bar right here which might interfere with trying to mount up the transmission.

So i'm going to quickly remove both bolts that hold this in it takes a few seconds and it'll make our lives so much easier. Now we want to get the transmission in place so jack it up. So it's level with the clutch and the input shaft lines up with the pilot bearing hole for my car. If i jack up the front of the engine to tilt the motor a little bit like that, it lines up better with the transmission, so the transmission could go straight in now.

Here's an inside view of the installation. You want the input shaft to go through the pressure plate and clutch and push all the way onto the engine like that again, but from the outside, we want to line up the transmission and wiggle it as we push the transmission up against the engine mounting surface. Like that - and you want to make sure the transmission is completely seated against the back of the engine, there should be no gap here. You don't want to put bolts in and tighten the bolts down and close the gap.

There should be no gap at all around the entire perimeter of the transmission, so now we can hand tighten all the bolts around the transmission and on these bolts you want to be sure to use medium strength thread locker that way, the vibrations of the engine and Transmission won't loosen the bolts while you're driving and let's hand tighten the two bolts on the passenger side as well, and finally, we could hand tighten the two bolts at the top of the transmission. Here's the first top bolt. Let's get that in there hand tight and here's the second top bolt again get it in there hand tight and since we're up here, let's torque down the first bolt, but there isn't room for a torque wrench. So i'm just going to do it by feel and it should be about 46 foot pounds good.

Now we could use a torque, wrench and torque the rest of these bolts in a crisscross pattern to 46 foot pounds. Don't tighten the bolts right next to the last one instead tighten the bolt across from the last one. So you know the transmission is mounting to the engine evenly and we'll finish up here with the other top bolt good, all right with those main transmission bolts. Torqued.

Now we have these two last bolts. We need to tighten down which hold the bottom of the separator plate to the transmission so tighten these down, but don't over tighten them because they're threaded into the aluminum belt housing good and we're almost done all that's left - is just installing everything that we removed. I'm gon na quickly go through this. It's gon na be nice and easy.

There's gon na be a little bit of a difference because we do have to add transmission, fluid i'll. Show you how to do that. It's really simple! So, let's get all this done. So we can go for our test drive now before we go and lower this transmission jack.

We want to install the two bolts holding in the transmission mount, so the rear of the transmission doesn't fall, and so i don't have to mention it over and over. Basically, all the bolts that i'm going to be installing are going to have medium strength, thread locker on them, because it's going to prevent those vibrations from loosening it up and also prevents the threads from getting rusty. If you live in an area where there's a lot of rust, so let's get these two bolts in and then torque them down to around 40 foot pounds. Now we can remove the transmission jack, so, let's lower it down all the way and remove it.

Now, let's install the front k-member brace that we took off to make it easier to install the transmission and torque these two bolts down to 50 foot-pounds and since we're here, we might as well install the clutch cable. So take the cable and fish it through the hole then grab the retaining clip and push it into. The slot now use a pry bar to push the clutch fork forward, so we can mount the cable into the clutch fork like that. Finally, we could add the clutch fork cover and tighten down the bolt that holds it in next.

Let's reattach our wiring harness start by pushing the clips into the mounting holes on the transmission. Then we can attach the reverse light sensor, pigtail by pushing it in place. One of my plastic retaining clips broke, so i'm going to be using a zip tie to hold the wire to the transmission, which will work perfectly now. Let's bring the rest of the harness to the back of the transmission and connect the pigtail to the speed sensor and with that our wiring harness is in place.

So let's go install the starter, so get the starter mounted in place into the bell: housing and then hand tighten the bottom bolt. First then, the side bolt and finally, the top bolt. Unfortunately, there's not enough room to get to the top or bottom bolts with a torque wrench, so instead i'm going to be using a regular wrench and these bolts get tightened down to 18 foot pounds for the middle bolt. We can reach it with a long extension.

So that could get torqued down and for the last bolt we could use a wrench to get back here and tighten it good and one last thing: we need to install the mounting bracket plate for the oxygen sensor, pigtail so get that tightened in place, and then The pigtail pushes right in okay with our starter installed. Now, let's go and install our drive shaft before you insert it into the transmission. You want to clean the end of the drive, shaft, make sure, there's no dirt or dust on it, and then i like to lubricate it with a little bit of transmission fluid just so it doesn't go in dry when installing the drive shaft push it in. As you turn a little to get the splines to line up to the transmission like that, then we can install the rear of the drive shaft to the differential line up the bolt holes and let's get a bolt in to hold it in place.

Now we're going to hand tighten these two bolts, then turn the drive shaft and hand tighten the other two bolts. Unfortunately, a torque wrench doesn't fit in here, so i'm going to tighten it with a regular wrench and all four of these bolts have to get torqued to about 90 foot pounds. So that's pretty much as hard as i could pull on this good. Now we can rotate to the other two and tighten these two down as well good and with all four bolts tightened down our drive.

Shaft is in now, let's go and add our transmission fluid, and to do that there is a fill plug at the top of our transmission right there. So let's get a ratchet on here to break that fill plug loose and then remove the fill plug. And now we could add our transmission fluid. So what you would do is you get your hose? You'd, stick it in the fill hole and you pump that fluid into the fill hole until it starts coming out now.

This could take a while, but i have an even faster method. That's a lot easier and that method is to fill it using the hole where your shifter goes so put a funnel where the shifter goes, and you could fill it from right here. Just be careful not to spill it, because we don't want to get our interior dirty and look at how much easier. This is now, i'm not sure if you noticed, but my car's transmission takes automatic transmission fluid and it takes a little over three quarts.

So make sure you check your owner's manual to see the specific type of fluid you need and the amount of fluid you'll need. So, on the fourth bottle, i'm gon na keep an eye on the fill hole and once fluid starts coming out, the transmission is full good. Now put the fill plug back in clean up that dripping, fluid and then tighten the plug. So it's snug and with our transmission filled now we can move on to installing the exhaust.

So, let's lift the front of the exhaust into place. Then torque each of the four nuts down to 30 foot pounds for a good seal and don't forget to connect the two oxygen sensors up here and these rear two oxygen sensors back here good now we can finish up by getting the bolts in the rear of The exhaust and tighten these down so it clamps the exhaust together for a leak-free seal same with the other pipe make sure you tighten the bolts evenly. So no exhaust seams leak out beautiful. Now, let's go install the shifter so with the gasket in place, mount the shifter onto the transmission and tighten down all four bolts in a criss-cross pattern.

This will evenly seat the shifter. Now, let's add our shifter boot and tighten these four bolts to hold it in place, then we could add the shifter handle tighten those two nuts, so it's secure and then add our interior shift trim so that it snaps in place. And finally, the last thing to do is to screw the shift knob on beautiful. Now we can get our negative battery cable, connect it to the battery and tighten the clamp.

So it's secure all right and with that everything is connected and put back together. Now we have one more thing we need to do and that is get the car back on the ground. So remove the jack stands in the front and i'm going to lower the front tires onto ramps. Otherwise the front bumper will be tilted so low.

I wouldn't be able to remove the jack now we should jack up the rear of the car, remove both of these jack stands and lower the car down to the ground with our old transmission out and our new transmission in we are, on the most exciting part Of the job, and that is testing out our new transmission, so clutch in we're in neutral. Let's start her up she's starting right up. So let's go for a test drive for our test drive. We want to go through each gear, nice and easy make sure.

There's no grinds make sure it goes into each gear, and this already feels so much better than the old transmission. Now, once we're in top gear, we'll downshift make sure your rev match the gear should pop right in, and this feels beautiful now for the first 500 miles, you don't want to drive hard. You want to break in the transmission with regular driving. Don't do burnouts, no dropping the clutch, no hard.

Shifting that way, our new transmission, the clutch, the flywheel all that stuff could break in properly and they'll last, a good long time all right. So that is how you remove, replace and install a transmission in your car or truck in this case. This was a rear-wheel drive setup, but if you're wondering it's very similar for a front-wheel drive setup, instead of removing a drive, shaft you're going to be removing axle, shafts, otherwise very very similar. Also, if you have an automatic again very similar you're going to have a torque converter in here, that's bolted up to a flywheel or flex plate.

You're gon na have to unbolt that before you drop the transmission, you might also have cooler lines going to the transmission. Otherwise, again very similar, and from this video you should be able to replace it. Hopefully, this video was helpful if it was remember to give it a thumbs up if you're not a subscriber, definitely consider subscribing for more how-to videos like this and as always all the tools and products i used in this video are linked in the description.

14 thoughts on “How to replace a transmission (full diy guide)”
  1. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Dan Miles says:

    FYI for the wrenchers on a budget out there. This same jack is currently $129 from Harbor Freight without using any coupon at all. If you want to save $80, then drive down to your local HF!

  2. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Stephen Flowers says:

    The moral of the story is. If you beat the crap out of your Mustang, You'll be replacing the transmission, throughout bearing, And the cross member/ transmission mount.

  3. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Sabir Alizada says:

    Chris, you are making the best YouTube tutorials!! Clear instructions, excellent housekeeping habits, quality tools…excellent camera angles, one word: Fantastic 👍

  4. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Garrett Banister says:

    Okay anyone getting a 96-98 mustang gt, something you should know is long-tube headers makes everything harder than it needs to be, I had to drop the automatic transmission, headers got in the way, had to put in the new transmission, I had to take off the passenger header (which required dropping suspension) then to change the transmission oil headers get in the way too and then if your starter goes out like mine did, then the headers are in the way of the top bolts of the starter, needless to say I’m about to trade my long-tube headers for stock manifolds

  5. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Flying Like The Wind says:

    Saw this video and went out and bought this transmission jack and I must say, that was the fastest transmission change I’ve ever done. Good info and tips yu gave on this one 2000 mustang is what I WAS working on.

  6. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Thomas Bakke says:

    THANK YOU CHRISFIX my Son is gone and so I have to go to the best that is doing the Repairs He was in the Military in 2006 as a mechanic . My Daughter is a heavy equipment mechanic but does not know anything about cars. And she's too busy providing for her family. Do you have anything concerning what I should do with my 2002 Toyota 4Runner the radiator blew the hose came off and I have no fluid now I have not started it since and I don't know what I should do first and what tools I need please message me I'm using my brother's phone thank you and no he doesn't know anything either thank you Chris

  7. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Tathan Bailey says:

    I was like why remove the shifter? mines on the column 1994 f150 that's why I didn't have to but still have to pop off the shifter linkage below.

  8. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Pablo Sorbara says:

    I love how at the beginning of the video Chris always tries to justify why would you want to do the repair he's showing.
    Yeah, like I'm actually going to REPLACE THE TRANSMISSION OF MY VEHICLE MYSELF.
    I just love seeing this man work.

  9. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Jonah Thompson says:

    Omg this is actually a really nice video to have. I’ve got an 07 automatic mustang and I need to replace the tranny, and so this is sUper helpful. I love this.

  10. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Suspiriaxx says:

    If anyone reads this and still experiences fears and doubts: you still have to study more.

    Once you have studied enough you will naturally get a feeling of "I can do this." and even then still the difficulty level is relatively high.

    But you can do it. You will still experience some tension and excitement but you will "feel" ready.

    My advise is do not attempt this while you still have those feelings of fear and doubt.

    Keep studying until you get the "details" right and then a lot of those fears and doubts will go away on its own.

  11. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars SydeHavok says:

    I really love the idea of being a mechanic but I just really think I won't be able to, I can barely take apart my phone without losing screws or forgetting where what screw goes where

  12. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars A guy named Doug. says:

    Would be cool to learn how you got to this point in your life. Cause, you are really good at this. Mechanic, teacher, and making some really well thought out and put together videos.

  13. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Timothy Brown says:

    I was wondering if you have anything on Rear Main Seals? My daughter has a 2010 Hyundai Sante Fe, AWD, with the V6. 2 years ago, had to have the oil sender replaced, which is common in these cars. And is often diagnosed as a rear main. This actually was the sender, But it has now also had an oil leak ever since, and multiple garages say it is the rear main. The leak started when it had about 65-70k miles, which doesn't seem right. Do you think the oil sender wasn't put in right, or could it be the rear main? vehicle has 95k now. And as a stop gap measure, do you think one of the Rear Main Seal leak oil additive work? Like Bar's Leaks Rear Main Seal? alot of the online blogs say it does more harm than good, and clogs stuff up. Car uses a quart about every 2500 miles, so my mechanic says live with the leak, because 6 quarts of oil a year is alot cheaper than the repair, and the can of worms is not worth opening on this car. thanks

  14. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars The Randomizer says:

    Thx for the vid cuz my family has stated to sell my 2013 ford fiesta for scrap. But thankfully my mom's friend who is a pro mechanic, knew the issue and did the job for me and now I'm happy

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