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Learn how to replace a clutch, flywheel, pressure plate, throw out bearing (aka release bearing), pilot bearing and rear main seal in this video!
My clutch was fine but my throwout bearing was bad so I decided to show how to replace all of the wear items while the transmission was off. This includes replacing the pilot bearing which the transmission input shaft goes into, the throwout bearing which engages the pressure plate via the clutch fork, the flywheel which I upgraded to an aluminum light weight flywheel, and finally the rear main seal because that is a common wear item which causes oil leaks in higher mileage motors. With the transmission out, it is worth it to replace all of these parts now instead of having to do this all over again. Most clutch kits come with the throwout bearing and pilot bearing so you just need to buy a rear main seal.
How to Replace a Transmission (Full DIY Guide):
Thanks Advance Auto Parts for supporting the video.
Flywheel I used:
Clutch kit I used:
Rear Main Seal:
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Hey guys chris fix here and today, i'm going to show you how to replace a clutch in your car or your truck now. The reason why i'm replacing the clutch is well, i had to lower my transmission because the throw out bearing also known as the release bearing is shot, look at how much play there is in there it's just in pieces, so that's junk and needs to get replaced. Now, while i'm in there, i might as well replace these parts as well. So in this video we're gon na be replacing the clutch we're gon na be replacing the pressure plate.

I'm gon na be replacing my flywheel. You don't necessarily have to replace yours. You could get it resurfaced. It's like resurfacing a brake rotor when you replace the brake pads, but in this case i have a nice brand new aluminum flywheel.

It's lightweight i'll, show you the difference between this one and the stock one, and since i use my car on the track, a nice aluminum, one less rotational mess way better i'll, also be replacing the throw out bearing and the pilot bearing, as well as the rear, Main seal now, if your car has an oil leak where the engine and transmission meet odds, are your rear, main seals bed, and in order to get to that, you need to drop the entire transmission. So a few bucks for the seal you might as well. Do it as preventative maintenance and finally we're putting in a new clutch fork, and i'm going to put a new clutch cable in and the best part is all this stuff is going to be done at home, using common tools, here's everything you need! It's that simple! So after watching this video, whether you need to replace the rear main seal on your car truck or you need to put a new clutch in, maybe you want to upgrade your flywheel whatever it is, i'm going to be covering everything that you need to know. So you could do this at home yourself now.

I do want to thank advanced, auto parts for sending me out all these new parts and supporting the video that way. I could show you guys how to do this and, with that said, i'll link all the parts and tools in the description, so you can easily find them and we're ready to get started. So the first thing that you need to do is to lower your transmission and remove it from the vehicle. Now i have an entire video on how to do this.

That goes in depth and i'll link that in the description, so you could check that one out, but just as an overview. The first thing we need to do is to go into the car and remove the shifter then go under the car and unbolt the exhaust. Then we'll drain the transmission, fluid we'll, remove the drive, shaft and remove the starter and finally unbolt the transmission and the transmission will slide out and down. So we could remove it from under the car all right and with that transmission removed.

Now we could go under the vehicle and remove the clutch now it's important that you wear eye protection and a dust mask, because that clutch dust is bad to breathe in. So let's get that on and head under the car. So the first thing we're gon na. Do is remove this pressure plate which sandwiches the clutch against the flywheel and holds it in the pressure plate is held in by six bolts around the perimeter and it's screwed into the flywheel.

And before we remove the bolts, i like to spray down the clutch with water to get the dust wet, which makes it less likely to get airborne and you won't breathe it in with that sprayed down. Now, let's remove the six bolts holding the pressure plate on the flywheel and, as you can see when i go to loosen this, the flywheel just spins, because nothing is holding it. So a simple trick is to grab a wood block and wedge it between the flywheel and the body of the car like so that prevents the flywheel from spinning. So you could easily remove the bolts holding the pressure plate in.

I recommend not using air tools when removing these bolts, because it'll just blow the clutch dust around and you're gon na breathe that in instead use an electric impact gun or, as you can see, hand, tools work perfectly fine. Now, let's remove this piece of wood and unscrew the last bolt, and since it is the last bolt hold that pressure plate with your other hand, so it won't just fall when you unscrew the bolt all the way now grab the clutch and pressure plate from the Middle and pull it off the flywheel just be careful, because it's a lot heavier than you would think all right, and it is that simple to remove a clutch and pressure plate and now that it's removed, we can move on to our next step. I am gon na come back and show you the differences between the stock clutch and the aftermarket clutch, and talk a little bit about that. But the next thing we need to do is remove the stock pilot, bearing this is what the transmission input shaft goes into and spins.

It holds it in place on the crankshaft. So it's important that we replace this as preventative maintenance and to do that there are two different methods. The first method is to use a pilot bearing removal tool like this. Now most of us won't have this, so you can rent this for free at your local, advanced, auto parts.

But let's just say you can't get this tool for whatever reason. The second method is to use bread and water or grease grease is thicker, so it works. A little better, so let me show you both methods on removing the pilot bearing so the pilot. Bearing is located right here in the middle of the flywheel.

It's pressed in so we're gon na have to pull it out and that's where our pilot bearing tool is gon na come in handy. It has two hooks on the end. It goes into the pilot bearing it opens up like that and it grabs onto the pilot bearing so we can pull it out, and i like doing this before we replace the flywheel, because if the tool slips or something happens - and we gouges the flywheel well, it Has to get resurfaced or we have to replace it. So that's okay, but if our good flywheel was on here or a resurfaced, one was on here and we gouge it well now we have a problem so to use the tool insert it into the pilot bearing and tighten down the threaded rod by hand until you Can't tighten it down anymore, make sure you get this as tight as possible, because you want this to spread the hooks out and grab onto that.

Bearing next get a wrench and tighten down the nut, which is going to cause the tool to pull on the bearing and if you watch the bearing you can see it get pulled outwards. As i turn the wrench and there we go, you can see how the tool holds the pilot bearing in and grabs onto it. So we can pull it out and one last quick tip with this puller. You want to make sure that you're straight on you don't want to pull at an angle.

You don't want to pull it when it's cocked to the side a little bit. It has to be straight on top of that bearing and pulling straight out. Otherwise, it won't work right so now you've seen the polar method, nice and simple. Let me show you the other method, just in case you can't get yourself one of these pullers and to show you the other method, i'm going to install a new pilot bearing i bought two just so i could show you this method, so i'm going to quickly Clean out the bore, so we have a clean surface to install the new bearing into and i'll cover the installation in detail in a second, but for now just carefully tap the bearing in now for the second method, you want to get grease and pump it into The bearing hole - and you want to keep pumping grease into the middle of the pilot, bearing until the whole thing is filled with grease and once the grease starts coming out, then we could get some bread and you're just going to shove the bread in there and What that does that's going to just help seal that grease? In now, you can grab an extension or a metal dowel, anything that you have that's going to fit in the pilot bearing nice and tight.

It shouldn't be so tight that it's stuck on the pilot bearing the pilot, bearing should be able to move out, because what we're going to do is we're going to push this grease and bread in which is going to force the pilot bearing out. So you need to find something that fits inside the diameter. That's a nice tight fit, but not too tight. So now all we need to do is to hammer the extension to force the grease and bread into the hole.

Then add more grease into the hole and again hammer that extension, which is creating hydraulic pressure, which will hopefully force that bearing out and one more time, add more grease and more bread and hammer it in there. And if you look, you can see the pressure starting to move the bearing outwards. So just a few more hits almost there and beautiful the bearing pops right out and you can see how the grease and bread mixture that you hammer in forces the bearing out. So there you go now, you know both methods on removing the pilot bearing the polar method and the grease and bread method.

Now, let's install the new bearing, but before we do that, we have to clean out the hole the bearing presses into so spray a little bit of brake cleaner in there and wipe away all the dirt and grease and with that hole cleaned now we can install Our brand new pilot bearing we don't need to lubricate anything inside there. We want this to go in dry. Now we're going to hammer the pilot bearing in, and i like to use a socket that fits right on the outside edge of the pilot, bearing we don't want to hammer the inside edge, because that will damage the bearing. So this goes right over the outside and we can press it right in so with the bearing in place gently tap the socket to evenly push the bearing in after a few taps, stop and make sure the bearing is going in straight and not going in at An angle - and this looks good so hammer it in the rest of the way until the bearing bottoms out good and that's how you install pilot bearing next.

We can remove the six bolts holding in the flywheel and just like before. When i go to loosen the bolt, the flywheel is just gon na spin. So i'm going to show you a different trick, this time, using a transmission bolt that threads into the engine and a pressure plate bolt that threads into the flywheel and then grab a wrench and put it over one of the bolts and then turn the flywheel until The box end of the wrench wedges against the other bolt to hold the flywheel in place. Now we can remove the bolts, actually we're going to need some more leverage, because these are tight, so grab a breaker bar and that's a lot easier.

Then we could unscrew the bolt the rest of the way by hand good. Now we can follow that exact, same process for the rest of the bolts, breaking it free with the breaker bar and then unscrewing it the rest of the way by hand finally break that last bolt free, but don't unscrew it all the way. Remove this wrench and then we want to loosen the bolt about halfway then grab a pry bar and pry the flywheel apart from the engine, because sometimes this could get stuck on there pretty good and that last bolt we left on. There prevents the flywheel from falling off, but now we can remove the bolt the rest of the way and be prepared, because flywheels are pretty heavy you're not going to want to drop this on yourself, good and now all we have left to do is pry the Separator plate off, like so and with the flywheel removed now we're on the last thing that we need to replace before we start reinstalling everything and that is replacing the rear main seal.

So if you're under your car - and you see a leak between the engine and the transmission, that oil is probably coming from a worn out, rear main seal, it's a common problem on many higher mileage cars and it's only a pain to fix. Because you have to remove your transmission, your clutch, your flywheel all the stuff you just saw me remove just to replace this cheap part, and that is why we're gon na be doing a little bit of preventative maintenance and we'll be replacing the rear main seal right Now now on many cars to get the rear main seal out, all you have to do is use something like a dental pick or a flathead screwdriver get behind the rear, main seal, making sure you don't scratch either surface here you get behind it and then you Pop it out, and then you put the new seal in and lightly tap it in so it's flush with the engine. Now, in this case, there's eight bolts holding in this rear main seal cover. So, first, let's spray down the area with some brake cleaner and make sure the area is clean.

Before we remove the cover and with that clean, we can remove the eight bolts holding on this cover. There are six bolts on the face of the cover that come right out, and then there are two oil pan bolts at the bottom of the cover that need to come out as well with the bolts removed. We could pull the cover off and this is stuck on there pretty good. So i'm going to use two pry bars to evenly pull the cover off good.

Now it should come right off now. You can actually see the rear main seal. It's this piece right back here in front of the seal is a seal retainer that needs to come out and when you're removing the seal retainer make sure you do not scratch the crankshaft. If you scratch the crankshaft, it's going to leak oil and that wouldn't be good, so i like to get a flathead screwdriver or in this case a pry bar works perfectly just lean it against the oil pan and carefully pry at the seal work.

Your way around. The seal, so we could pop it off the crank like that perfect and that's how you remove the seal. Now we could go and slide the rear, main seal off and there you go. That's all there is to it and with that we are finished with our disassembly.

The rest is a piece of cake, so we removed our clutch and pressure plate. We removed and replaced our old pilot bearing we removed our old flywheel and finally, we removed our old rear main seal. So now the next step is to replace the seal, and let me show you how to do that and before we install our brand new rear main seal. The first thing we need to do is get this surface clean and prepped.

So i like to use a tray, so i don't get everything all messy and we're going to spray this down with brake cleaner. Now you might be tempted to use a metal gasket scraper like this to clean the surface, but don't this is aluminum. This is steel. This will easily gouge into this by mistake and if you get a gouge into that, you'll cause an oil leak.

Instead, i have two alternatives: use a plastic scraper or i like to get a sponge with the abrasive side and use that to remove all the gunk and it's important to clean the surface. So when we reinstall it there won't be any oil leaks. So work your way around the entire gasket surface and then wipe it clean. Now we need to clean the surface that the rear main seal sits against, so that it won't leak again, use the abrasive end of a sponge and work your way around the entire bore making sure it's clean and smooth perfect, and with that surface clean and smooth All the way around our rear main seal is gon na sit in there and it's not gon na leak.

So we got that surface clean and we got our outside surface clean here now, let's go and install our brand new rear main seal so find a nice solid surface that you can hammer on and when installing the new rear, main seal make sure you install it In the correct direction, there's a flat side here, this flat side is supposed to go on the outside it's supposed to face outside towards the flywheel and this ridge side. This open side here is supposed to be on the inside towards the engine. Now our new rear main seal has a protective casing which we're going to use when we're installing it against the engine. But for now you could remove it and you just want to line it up.

Just like that and make sure that you read the directions that come with the seal. In this case we have a ptfe seal. This is a high quality seal and it's supposed to go in dry, some rear main seals you're supposed to oil before you put it in, but this one goes in dry, so just line it up, and then i like to use a flat piece of metal so That we can hammer it in evenly so work your way around the seal, hammering it in so it's flush with the case surface beautiful. So once your rear main seal is level with the back of this case, you can see it's completely flush.

The rear main seal is in and we're ready to go and install this now under the car. We want to clean off the entire gasket surface on the engine as well and to prevent debris from getting into the oil pan cover it with a rag, and then we can spray it all down with brake. Cleaner again use the abrasive side of a sponge to clean off the gasket surface. So it's smooth and clean next wipe down the surface with a clean towel to remove any oils.

And finally, we want to clean the crankshaft surface so spray it down with some brake. Cleaner rub it down to make it smooth and clean and wipe it off with a clean towel, beautiful all right with the gasket surface completely smooth and clean. Don't worry about that brown staining that's in the metal from the oil. That's not going to cause an oil leak or anything, that's completely.

Fine. The surface is smooth and it's cleaned. So with that surface, smooth and clean, and with our crank surface smooth and clean now we could grab our rtv. This is specifically made for maximum oil resistance, because this gasket is going to get a lot of oil on it.

So we're going to start in the corner here and lay a bead of rtv all the way around the gasket surface. We want to stay on the inside of the bolt holes, so we don't have any oil leaks and once we get to the other side, we want to end at the corner and even though there's a gasket at the bottom, i'm gon na put a really thin Bead of rtv just to ensure that we have zero leaks now, let's grab the plastic ring that came with the rear, main seal and press it onto the crank to help us install the seal then grab the cover and we want this to go on straight. So we don't mess up the rtv gasket so get it in place on the plastic ring and screw some bolts into the cover to keep it from moving side to side. Then we can tap the cover in with a rubber mallet, so it slides onto the crankshaft perfect, now, let's hand tighten all six screws in a crisscross pattern to lightly sandwich the cover against the rtv make sure this is just hand tight good, and now we can Remove this plastic install piece, this piece made it really simple: to install the rear main seal without the inside edge folding in or getting pinched.

It's important that the inside edge here doesn't fold in like that, and then you have a spot that the oil could seep out. So this tool, which comes with the new rear main seal, is really helpful. So with the cover and rear main seal installed, all the bolts are hand tightened just enough to lightly squeeze out that rtv. Now we're going to let this dry for about an hour an hour later we want to go back and torque each bolt down in a crisscross pattern to 89 inch pounds, not foot pounds inch pounds.

Then we could tighten the two bottom oil, pan, bolts and torque them down to 15 foot pounds and then turn the wrench an extra 60 degrees. Now we could finally install our rear main seal retainer, also known as an oil slinger. But this one that we removed is bent up, so we need to use a new one. You can see the new one's nice and straight and this one's gon na go in with the flat side towards the rear, main seal, so we're just gon na lightly tap the seal into place.

So that's even around the crank and now with a punch, we're again lightly gon na tap it in place. So it's evenly pushed a little bit into the cover. You don't want to push it too far and knock the rear main seal out. But that looks perfect and there we go.

That is how you install a rear, main seal, very simple, a few extra minutes, a couple extra bucks and it's totally worth it for preventative maintenance. Now, let's go and install our flywheel all right out with the old heavy stock flywheel and in with the brand new lightweight aluminum flywheel. This thing is going to be awesome, but you don't necessarily need to get a brand new flywheel. You can resurface your old flywheel.

Just call your local machine shop or mechanic: ask them if they resurface flywheels, it's usually pretty inexpensive, which is good. All you need to do is make sure that your flywheel teeth are not chipped or cracked or missing. You also want to run your fingernail across the flywheel surface and make sure there's no deep grooves little grooves right there and right there on the edge where the clutch sits is okay, but anything really deep might not be good. Also, you want to look for any discoloration.

You see that rainbow discoloration there. If you see that along the entire area that the clutch sits. That means the clutch overheated this flywheel, that little spot isn't a big deal that could have been from somebody getting the bolts off and using a torch. This is the original ford flywheel, so i wouldn't be surprised, and the last thing you want to look for are any cracks almost like a dry lake bed right in this clutch area on the flywheel.

In this case, this flywheel looks really good, so i can get it resurfaced, but i'm not going to. Instead, i drift this car. Take it to the track, so i'm going all out high performance, lightweight aluminum flywheel wait. So you see the difference in weight.

I have a scale i'm going to show you the difference now the downside is, it is going to take a little bit of getting used to when you're driving this on the street, getting into first gear you're really going to have to feather the clutch you can Have to slip it a lot more than with the heavy stock one, but the positives greatly outweigh the negatives. The lighter flywheel, less rotational mass means that the engine isn't working as hard to spin this up. So it's able to spin up the flywheel quicker. So your rpms could go up quicker, which means you're going to be in the power band quicker.

That's a good thing! Also. It's going to use a lot less power to spin this up, so you're freeing up horsepower, which is a good thing and just to give you an idea. Let's weigh these flywheels and see how much weight savings we have. The stock flywheel weighs about 21 and a half pounds and the aluminum flywheel weighs about 12 pounds, so that's a weight savings of nine and a half almost 10 pounds and for rotational mass.

That is a lot of weight savings. It's gon na make a big difference. Now we do need a hammer in three locator pins that help us install the pressure plate so place the pin in the hole and tap it until it bottoms out and do the same for the other pins. So with our three pins installed.

Now, let's go and install the flywheel grab, some 800 grit sandpaper or the abrasive end of a sponge and sand down the edge where the transmission meets the motor. We don't want any corrosion dirt or grease, causing a little bump, and then the transmission doesn't seat completely flat. Then we can install the separator plate, which i also cleaned up and made smooth, and the last thing is to clean the surface where the flywheel sits. Again, you want the surface to be clean and smooth if there's dirt or rust on the surface, the flywheel could wobble and cause vibration while driving.

Finally, we can install the flywheel now you're able to reuse your old flywheel bolts unless, if you have torque to yield bolts, but i'm installing brand new ones for safety, because my car sees heavy track use now to prepare the flywheel bolts for installation, whether you're using Brand new ones or you're reusing the old ones. You want to add a little bit of grease to the bottom of the bolt head. So when we torque it down, there isn't friction which is going to throw off the torque spec, and you don't want to get this grease on the threads spread it out, but only on the bottom of the bolt head. Then, let's add some medium strength thread locker to the threads like so and that's the proper way to get your flywheel bolts ready to get tightened down.

So now, let's install the flywheel just get it on the crankshaft and turn it until all the bolt holes line up then hand tighten all six flywheel bolts. Next, tighten a pressure plate bolt onto the flywheel and tighten the transmission bolt into the engine and use the wrench trick. I showed you before to keep the flywheel from turning now we can torque down the bolts to 64 foot-pounds and i'm going to mark each bolt. So i know it's been torqued so torque down the bolt in a crisscross pattern, so the flywheel gets evenly tightened to the crankshaft and never use an impact gun to tighten down a flywheel because you could easily warp it so with the flywheel installed.

Now, let's go get our new clutch so out with the old clutch and pressure plate and in with the brand new one. Now, how you could tell your old clutch is worn out is by looking at the rivets. The clutch material should be above the rivets, the rivets shouldn't be flush with or sticking out of the clutch material if it is it'll contact the flywheel, and that means your clutch is no good. In this case, you can see we have plenty of clutch material over the rivets, so this clutch is good.

It's also a good idea to check all the springs, make sure there's no play in here and make sure there's no play in the spline section and there isn't. If we wanted to, we could totally reuse this clutch, but i'm not going to. I have a brand new one to install as for the pressure plate, just like the flywheel run, your nail across the surface, there shouldn't be any grooves. You also want to check the springs on the pressure plate.

You can see. This is where the throttle, bearing sits. You want to make sure all the springs are level and there aren't any grooves. I could see some grooves right here, so if any of those springs are grooved or if they're bent or missing, you definitely need to replace this.

Now, anytime, i remove a transmission, even if it's just to replace a throwout bearing like in this transmission. If we're not on a budget, i like to replace as many parts as possible as you've seen and in this case, i'm going with a brand new zoom performance. Clutch this is rated to 400 horsepower, which will be perfect for when i install the supercharger in the drift stand. Now, if you notice, i am not touching this clutch with these dirty greasy gloves, you don't want to get any grease on the clutch surface, because that'll cause it to slip and overheat, and you just did all this work for nothing and speaking of grease.

There is grease from the factory cosmoline grease on this surface of the pressure plate, so we need to clean that off so now's a good time to either wash your hands or change out your gloves and that's exactly what i'm going to do. I'm going to change these out for nice, fresh ones and with new gloves on now we could clean the surface grab our brake, cleaner and spray down the entire surface of our pressure plate then get a towel and clean all that grease off good. So now we put our clutch on here. We want to grab our clutch alignment tool and let's go install this now, just like the pressure plate, we need to clean the grease off the surface of the flywheel before we install the clutch.

Otherwise, the clutch could get grease on it and slit and with the flywheel clean we are ready to install our clutch. Now i have all my bolts ready to go right here with thread locker on them. I have our clutch alignment tool ready to go. So, let's get that clutch in now, you want to make sure the clutch is in the proper direction.

You have a flat side to the clutch, and then you have a raised side to the clutch. The race side always goes into the pressure plate and the flat side always goes up against the flywheel. Many clutches even have stickers on them. It says fw side or flywheel side to remind you that this side goes towards the flywheel and one last thing you want to grab your clutch alignment tool and i have a trick which is going to help us later get a marker or a pen, and we Just want to draw a line on the top here and you'll see how this helps us later on.

When we go and install the transmission, it makes it a lot easier. So now grab the clutch alignment tool. Let's grab our clutch flat side towards the flywheel. Let's spline this, so that's towards the top like that and let's get this installed, so we want the end of the alignment tool to go all the way into the pilot.

Bearing and that'll hold the clutch in the middle for us then grab the pressure plate and we want to align this onto the studs. We hammered into the flywheel before now. Get the six bolts that hold in the pressure plate, hand tightened, and i do have medium strength thread locker on each of these bolts. So, with all the bolts in now, let's torque them down to 24 foot-pounds and if the flywheel spins, you should be able to just hold it in place by hand like that, and now we could finish torquing down the bolts in a criss-cross pattern.

And finally, we could remove the clutch alignment tool and now the clutch and pressure plate are installed into the flywheel. So now, let's install the new throughout bearing into the transmission and to install the new throughout bearing first. We need to remove the old one. So pull the clutch fork down and slide it off the input shaft like so i'm also going to replace this worn pivot stud so get a deep, socket and break that loose and then remove it.

The rest of the way by hand and with the old clutch fork throughout bearing and pivot stud removed, check this out this throughout, bearing is completely shot not only that this is supposed to be around the input shift on the transmission, but the throat bearing so bad. This is seized to it and that is not coming off. That's why you don't want to drive around with a bad throat, bearing also if you take a look at the pivot, stud here's. What a new pivot stud looks like and that's the old one.

You could see the wear on it so because we drove around with a bad throw out bearing everything here needs to get replaced so new pivot, stud, new clutch fork and, of course, a new throw out bearing and before we slide our throwout bearing into position. We need to lubricate all the points that the throat, bearing touches, i'm going to be using the included spline lubricant, but you could also use high temperature grease and just get a light coat of grease on the two contact points on this side and on the contact Points and spring on the back of the clutch fork. So let me show you how to install the new throwout bearing into the clutch fork, and this is actually something a lot of people mess up on, because there's a spring here and on the back of this throwout bearing is a collar. The spring has to be on the inside of the collar, so make sure you hold the spring down.

Just like that and slide the throat bearing in perfect. You can see the spring is on the inside of the collar, and that is how you install a throughout bearing so let's go get this installed into the transmission and before we install any new parts, it's always a good idea to check your input. Shaft. You want to make sure there's no play.

Oh man, that's not good! You see how there's side to side play and up and down play. That means there's too much play in the input. Chef bearings all the way in the transmission and the transmission needs a rebuild. So out with the old, broken transmission and in with a completely rebuilt one, and this input, shaft has no play in it at all.

Also, it has the sleeve on top of it, so we can install our throat bearing, and since this is completely rebuilt, we don't have to install a new pivot stud. It has one already and with the new pivot stud, it's a good idea to use some type of lubricant on it. I like to use anti-seize, you don't want to add a lot just coat the surface and since we're lubricating parts use the included, spline lubricant and add a very, very light coat to the splines of the input. Shaft, don't load it up with lubricant, because when it spins it could sling the lubricant onto the clutch and cause it to slip so again use a very light coat on the splines and on the end, where it goes into the pilot bearing one more place to Lubricate is on the input shaft sleeve, where the throat bearing slides back and forth and again you only need a light coat so with everything lubricated, let's get the clutch fork and throat bearing in place, make sure the clutch fork snaps into the pivot stud and is Free to move back and forth with no resistance and the last part to lubricate is the face of the throwout bearing because it's in contact with the pressure plate springs.

So it's good to have a thin coat of lubricant on there. So there you go. That's everything you want to lubricate with the spline lubricant. If they don't give you spline lubricant with your clutch, you could use a high temperature grease, but again you only want a light coat to prevent that sling from getting on your clutch now.

One last thing remember: when we installed the clutch, i told you to draw a line on the top of the clutch alignment tool, so it's facing upwards well. The reason why i told you to draw that line is because this is going to help us align the splines in our transmission. One of the most difficult parts of this whole job is getting the transmission to align with the clutch when we install it. So with this line here we know we have to get a spline straight up.

So let's turn this transmission like that good, and you see this spline right there. Now that is a level with that spline, that's exactly how it's going to go into the clutch and that's a little trick that makes installing this transmission so much easier. Now we know this input. Shaft is splined directly into that clutch.

So, with everything set up properly now we're all done. The next thing to do is install the transmission. So let's get the transmission under the car jack it up into place and because our input shaft is lined up to the clutch, we should be able to just push the transmission right in beautiful and just as a quick overview of the installation torque down the transmission Bolts in a crisscross pattern, then we're going to add our starter connect, the drive, shaft, add transmission, fluid install the exhaust install the shifter, and now the last thing to install is a brand new clutch cable. What happens is the old clutch? Cable gets worn out and it stretches so then you don't get the proper engagement and disengagement of the clutch.

A new cable takes a few minutes to put in it's really simple, so let me go show you how and we're going to start off by removing the old clutch cable, so we're going to start in the interior over at the pedal assembly under the dash, and You can see when you press on the clutch it pulls on the clutch cable right there so to remove the cable is simple. Just get some slack in the cable and slide the end of the cable out of the assembly, just like that. So, with the cable removed down there, now we can go follow the cable up into the engine bay, where it comes out right here. The cables held into the firewall by a very small five millimeter bolt so unscrew it all the way and the clutch cable could be removed, and then we could go under the car to remove one more bolt that mounts the cable to the body of the car.

So unscrew this bolt and now we can remove the entire clutch cable so out with the old and in with the new, and we want to start installing the new cable by bolting it into the firewall. Once that's snug, then let's go inside the car and get the cable onto the clutch pedal assembly and make sure the cable is in the little groove in the plastic piece here. So it works properly. Then, under the car we could bolt it into the frame good and route, the cable to the transmission through the little gap next to the oil pan.

Now we can slide the cable into the hole in the transmission and push the retaining clip in to hold the cable in place. Now we need to adjust the clutch, cable and clutch fork to make sure that the throughout bearing is pressing against the pressure plate so thread the cable into the clutch fork. Add some medium strength thread locker to the threads and tighten down the included nut as tight as you could get it by hand. This will put the throw up bearing in contact with the pressure plate, but it won't press on it too hard where it might disengage.

The clutch once that's hand, tightened as much as we could get it. There's no play in the clutch fork. So now we could screw on the jam nut all the way. This will prevent vibrations from loosening this up, so get the wrench on the main nut and tighten the jam nut against the main nut.

Just like that, so the jam nut holds everything in place. Now we can add the cover and we are done so that is how simple it is to replace a clutch cable, but not every car has a clutch cable. Many cars like this honda, have a hydraulic clutch. So, instead of a clutch cable, there is a slave cylinder which uses hydraulic pressure which is similar to your brakes.

So when you press on the clutch it disengages it when you let off the clutch, it re-engages it, but instead of replacing a clutch cable, what you'd have to do is you would have to bleed the slave cylinder just like bleeding the brakes. You have a little bleeder valve here, go and loosen that up. Have somebody press on the clutch hold it down close it and then let go of the clutch do that multiple times until all the air is bled out, and you have a nice firm pedal, otherwise replacing the clutch on a car that has a hydraulic clutch is Very similar, but i just wanted to cover this real quick, because there are a lot of clutches out there that are hydraulic so now back to the mustang, all right with everything back together and the car back on the ground. Now comes the fun part where we go test drive the car to make sure everything is working properly.

I also can't wait to see how that lightweight, flywheel and heavy duty clutch feels so clutch in and let's start her up all right, i'm gon na. Let the clutch out good that feels like it's working properly. I don't hear any weird noises. The clutch is engaging and disengaging properly, so let's go for a ride and see how she runs.

Now i could tell already the lightweight flywheel takes a little more revving to keep the car from stalling in first, but it's not bad. I don't hear any noises. The clutch is disengaging completely when i press the pedal all the way and when i let off the pedal it engages completely. So now you just want to drive around town.

Go through every gear make sure it's all working as it should and always follow the manufacturer's recommendation for breaking in the new clutch, which is usually driving around for a few hundred miles. Without beating on it drive normally don't go and drop the clutch. Don't do a burnout, don't go racing, otherwise you won't break it in properly and it'll. Wear out, quick and yes, i know the speedometer is not working on my car.

It broke at the last drift event and i've been waiting to make a video on how to diagnose that problem and show you how to fix it. It's actually really simple and there you go. That is an in-depth video on how to replace a clutch pressure plate. Flywheel pilot bearing throughout bearing and rear main seal, basically everything you need to know on doing a proper and thorough clutch replacement.

Hopefully, the video was helpful if it was remember to give it a thumbs up if you're not a subscriber, consider subscribing for more how-to videos like this and as always all the tools and products i used in this video are linked in the description.

18 thoughts on “How to replace a clutch in your car or truck (full diy guide)”
  1. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Callum Brown says:

    such a clear and understanding video, great job! Only problem is you make it look so easy! 😂

  2. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Ai Dan says:

    I'm honestly very scared to start this journey with my car… I know it's coming soon, but I don't want it to..

  3. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Nolan Colby says:

    I did the clutch on my 05 Mazda 3,what a pain in the ass but the reward was phenomenal.

  4. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Hola! something something says:

    "These bearing removal tools are the best thing since sliced bread!"

    ChrisFix: not so fast there buckaroo

  5. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Hola! Name says:

    Ok so option one, this speciality tool. Option two is some grease and some bread. I’m not sure what I expected but it certainly wasn’t that.

  6. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Rajkumar Ponnuthurai says:

    Whats the advantage of using a aluminium fly wheel chris?
    (Its less denser dan steel.)

  7. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Orlando Toney says:

    So throw out bearing N pivot stub are essential to taking care of ur gears to work right and drive smoothly?

  8. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Collins Ian007 says:

    Fyi….you can use just bread…avoid the grease mess…just put some bred in and hammer the pin and repeat till pilot barring comes out. It doesn't really matter wich way u do it but i personally would just avoid the mess…. Great vid

  9. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Michael Escalante says:

    I was just saying to myself why his speedometer was not working and suddenly he talked about it right after I said his speedometer was not working lol

  10. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Tathan Bailey says:

    Bread and grease DIY Genius
    I've also used rubbing alcohol for cleaning mating surfaces like the transmission and pan surfaces.

  11. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars willcgodsson says:

    Awesome Can you make a video of this but doing this on a 1998 Acura integra GSR thanks 🙏

  12. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars evgeni dimitrov says:

    No problem in engaging gears only problem is when disengaging and that is only for 1st and reverse no prob 2-6. Is it time for a new clutch or the problem lies somewhere else. Last owner said it was replaced 25k miles ago. Car is VW Sharan 1.9 TDI 130hp 6s manual Please help

  13. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Zane Doughty says:

    can i have your car parts that might work with A 1973 Pontiac j2000 convertible, and a 2004 Suzuki aerio

  14. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Quoc Chau says:

    Thanks Chris, another gr8 video. I learned a lot! Question for you, I cracked the threads of a manual transmission (aka clutch ) gear oil drain plug. So wondering whether I can simply replace the cover to the clutch compartment instead of unbolting the transmission from the engine? Thanks for your help.

  15. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars lorenzo langeli says:

    Did you hear a terrible noise when after the barring was worn, with the clutch in and out?

  16. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars BoB says:

    Thanks chris im a 16 year old i have a 2002 v6 manual mustang snd this should def help me in the future if it applies to that year of car aswell which im assuming it does

  17. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Kingfisher says:

    Having a lazy morning. Time to watch someone do a lot of work and make it look easy. Satisfying coffee time.

  18. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars CHTHONIC CRYSTAL CHANNEL says:

    Where do you find the new REAR SEAL RETAINER? I can find plenty of Rear Main Seals, but the new RETAINER is harder to find. Any info would be good.

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